New member - would appreciate some differential information/help.
adding new info. the 2001 dakota only has 2 axles, 8 1/4 and 9 1/4. which one do you have? its easy the 8 1/4 has rounded pan cover sides, 10 pan bolts, ie if it looks rounded it is 8 1/4. the 9 1/4 cover has flat sides, it doesnt even look round, it has 12 pan bolts. this is per 2001 factory service manual. new info, from allpar. 3.9 V6, NV-3500 manuat, 42RE auto, max towing 4,900 lb, power (200) 175 hp, 225 lb-ft. /// 4.7 V-8 NV-3500 manual, 45RFE auto, 6,100 ib 235 hp. 295 lb-ft. /// 5.9 V8 46re auto, 6,350 lb, 245 hp, 335 lb-ft. for 2000 dakota
Last edited by moe7404; Jun 18, 2012 at 08:34 PM.
moe7404, when I was at the shop last Friday the owner mentioned that I had the larger of the two diffs so assuming I heard him right it must be the 9.25.
Latest info is as follows. They called me after disassembling the rear end and said that there is a deep groove on the inside of the housing where the side bearing cap bolts go through. Because of this he's recommending replacing the entire rear axle assembly for ~$1,400K with a 6 month warranty.
My concern with this option is given the history on this vehicle I'm running the risk of being in the exact same situation in the future. I've looked at remanufactured/refurbished axle assemblies and they same to run $2K-$3K. That's a little salty.
I've asked the shop to price buying a rear axle assemble from a junkyard and then rebuilding it. I'll know more on this option tomorrow.
Any other options or advice?
Latest info is as follows. They called me after disassembling the rear end and said that there is a deep groove on the inside of the housing where the side bearing cap bolts go through. Because of this he's recommending replacing the entire rear axle assembly for ~$1,400K with a 6 month warranty.
My concern with this option is given the history on this vehicle I'm running the risk of being in the exact same situation in the future. I've looked at remanufactured/refurbished axle assemblies and they same to run $2K-$3K. That's a little salty.
I've asked the shop to price buying a rear axle assemble from a junkyard and then rebuilding it. I'll know more on this option tomorrow.
Any other options or advice?
TO:mbkintner. what ever rear end was in is what you want to put back in, cause they have different drivishaft lengths. if it is 8 1/4 it will have 10 pan bolts. if it is a 9 1/4 it will have a 12 bolt pan. above all DO get a DSL diff. dont get auburn, it cant be rebuilt. read all my above posts carefully, some of it kind of runs on.
Last edited by moe7404; Jun 21, 2012 at 08:32 PM.
my rear diff was shot replaced it myself all my spiders were, retaining bar was badly worn as well and my housing also had the gouge in it, i left it , but here's my point..i went with the 9.25 trac-loc,known as a Chrysler corporate 9.25, it originally had the one wheel spinner in it (LSD?), now i got a two wheel spinner lol and that rarely ever happens, although i did stick with same size here's a couple links for the trak-loc http://completeoffroad.com/i-123213-...dodge-ram.html and e-bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-9-25-C...-/350482690040
Last edited by EricBing; Jun 23, 2012 at 08:06 AM.
get the http://completeoffroad.com/i-213-pos...dodge-ram.html but be sure you how to work on rear ends, its not easy. i have done them. just be sure you know what you are doing. iam 63 now i dont think i would do one now. AND get the right oil.
MB... if ya unsure how to do Grab a Haynes manual,(Advance auto or meijers) pretty clear instructions, only thing thats the least bit technical is adjusting the backlash and crush bearing (which is only torque) and the backlash is only lining up gears(adj diff from side to side) as indicated in directions , (they do it with marker paint) other than that yes make sure ya get the right fluids, I never did one before and did my own with no special tools took all day though LOL good luck..
Last edited by EricBing; Jun 24, 2012 at 04:42 PM.


