I love this truck so far. Once I am done with the work, I will post up some pictures. So far I have trouble-shot some problems including a mystery dangling cord under the dash, hooked up and fixed the remote start system that was a mess, and cleaned out the entire interior due to the previous owner being a smoker.

Coming up next is a Throttle Body cleaning, including replacement of the TPS and IAC (idling and running a bit rough) and more troubleshooting. Here is where I need some help.

1. I get error codes P0031 HO2S Heater Ctrl Circ Low Bank1 Sens1 and P0132 1/1 O2S Shorted To Voltage. I know both of those deal with the Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor. The only issue I am facing is from my research it seems that P0132 deals with the wiring and not necessarily the sensor. Should I just replace it? Should I replace other while I am at it?

2. On the instrument cluster where it has P D N R 1 2 and such, I am able to shift the truck to get it in gear. The electronic display should show a square around the correct selection. On my display, the square scrolls from left to right continuously. Any idea how to rectify this?

3. Here is the most troubling thing of all. I can deal with the other things, but this one is bothering me. When I drive the truck, I am getting a rattling from what seems like the front end. It is definitely louder when the window is open, but I can also hear it with the windows closed, and somewhat feel it. Sound like tie rods? Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance. Take care.

 

Here is my 2 cents on it...

1. Replace the O2 sensor. The codes just mean the sensor is bad, not reading the right signal back to the PCM from the exhaust, the code does not have much to do with the sensor wiring. NTK or Dodge OEM is the best O2 sensor to use. Some say the Bosch sensors from Advance and Auto Zone don't do very well in Dakota's. You can save money on the O2's by ordering direct off the NTK web site. I only paid about $65.00 shipped for both of mine. Dealer probably charges twice that or more just for one sensor. NTK is the supplier for the OEM Mopar sensors anyway. My opinion is yes, replace the other sensor at the same time. My logic is that if one is bad, the other may not be far behind. Plus I would do both at the same time just so I would not have to get back under the truck later and do it again for the other side. Be sure to order the sensor with the connector plug already on the wires. It is much easier and more reliable. Well worth the extra few bucks to not have to splice wires under the truck.

2. I don't know a lot about the automatics, but I do know there is a transmission gear range sensor on the transmission that might be bad, causing the gear indicators to cycle like that. Or you might just get lucky and all it is is the sensor may be unplugged for some reason. The sensor has a flat wire connector plug on it, it has 5 wires going to it. Here is some info from the Dakota Factory Service Manual about the sensor:

The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (Fig. 251)
has 3 primary functions:
• Provide a PARK/NEUTRAL start signal to the
engine controller and the starter relay.
• Turn the Back-up lamps on when the transmission
is in REVERSE and the engine (ignition) is on.
• Provide a transmission range signal to the
instrument cluster.

The sensor is mounted in the transmission housing
near the valve body, just above the pan rail. It’s in
the same position as the Park/Neutral switch on
other transmissions. The TRS contacts a cammed
surface on the manual valve lever. The cammed surface
translates the rotational motion of the manual
lever into the linear motion of the sensor. The
cammed surface on the manual lever is comprised of
two parts controlling the TRS signal: The insulator
portion contacts the switch poppet when the manual
lever is not in PARK or NEUTRAL. The manual
lever itself contacts the poppet when the lever is in
PARK or NEUTRAL; providing a ground for the signal
from the starter relay and the JTEC engine controller.
OPERATION
As the switch moves through its linear motion (Fig.
252) contacts slide across a circuit board which
changes the resistance between the range sensing
pins of the switch. A power supply on the instrument
cluster provides a regulated voltage signal to the
switch. The return signal is decoded by the cluster,
which then controls the PRNDL display to correspond
with the correct transmission range. A bus
message of transmission range is also sent by the
cluster. In REVERSE range a second contact set
closes the circuit providing power to the reverse
lamps.

According to the manual and the pictures in it there are some special tools and specific procedures involved in removing the sensor. The manual also has info about checking the connector pins for dirt and corrosion. If the sensor is plugged in and all connections are OK, it might be best to have a transmission shop check for transmission specific codes and go from there. Or it may be that the sensor is OK and the erratic gear display is another problem related to the remote start. My guess is the sensor is bad but that is just a guess, and not even an educated one at that. I know nothing about automatics.

3. The rattling sound could be any number of things - a loose nut or bolt or piece of metal or plastic rubbing against some other metal or plastic piece. If there are no obvious loose parts, maybe get the truck up on jack stands and start checking the steering and suspension. It might be tie rods or bad ball joints. Dakota's are known for bad ball joints. It might be the stabilizer bar end links are shot. You can check those just by looking at them, if the boots are ripped, you need new ones. Bad end links can make a rattling/clanging noise especially when you go over a bump or speed breakers at parking lot speeds. You have to check for abnormal play in the tie rods and ball joints, or maybe there are bad stabilizer bar bushings or control arm bushings causing the rattle. You can get the front end off the ground and get in there with a pry bar to check it out. Maybe get under the front end and have a helper rock the steering wheel back and forth, that may help isolate the noise.

Up in the FAQ section here at the top of the Second Gen page there is a topic for downloading the factory Dakota Service Manual. I think if you use the search box and the key words "Dakota Factory Service Manual-Fixed" there is also a post with the manual download links buried here in the main general discussion pages some where. There are a lot of links posted and a lot of replies in the posts but some where in there should be a link that will work so you can download the FSM for free. If you get the one I have, the info about the transmission range sensor begins on page 21-208. I was reading about it in the 42RE transmission section, but I would think that sensor is probably the same no matter what transmission you have.

I hope this helps you out. Others here may have more info for you.

Jimmy

 

Thanks so much for the response.

I just finished up the throttle body cleaning and a seafoam treatment today. Wow, what a difference in idling, shifting, and driving.

I got under the truck and looked around some more. Come to find out, the O2 sensor that is failing is actually missing. Go figure. I will change them all out. I am definitely getting NTK but can't find them for as cheap as you did.

It seems the scrolling square on the gear selector is not worth it. Might give it a look when I get the chance.

Well the rattling noise is still there. And I found a bigger problem today. In 4wd, I get a loud grinding noise. Going straight and turning. U joint, cv joint, front driveshaft? Will take a closer look tomorrow.

Can't wait to fix her all up. It's getting there.