Oil Sender Bad? Now Tappet Noaise
Update:
I understand that the Oil Pump Pick-up Screen is clogging and the only real fix is to drop the Oil Pan and clean it out including the Screen.
But being old and slower than I used to be, I just don't have time or patience to do that until I can license and drive my Miata in February 2013.
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The initial problem was the that Oil Pressure would drop to 0 then rebound and after 10 Highway miles it dropped to 0 and stayed there.
That was when the Lifter noise started
I added a bottle of Rislone Oil Treatment but them my Lifters were clacking louder by the time I got home.
Next, I changed the Oil/Filter and the Oil Pressure was good and fluctuated as expected @ given RPM.
But after 150 miles, the Oil Pressure began dropping to 0 after a few miles.
So:
I bought a quart of GUNK Engine Flush and followed the "Label Instructions."
I waited until the AM when the engine was cold.
I added the GUNK and ran the engine for 5 minutes then jacked the truck up and drained the Oil, letting it drip for an hour trying to get most of the Gunk contaminated Oil out of it.
I changed the Filter and added new 10w30.
The Oil Pressure was 70 @ 2k RPM and 30 @ idle and after a week I thought the problem was solved.
700 miles later, the Oil Pressure dropped to 0 after a few miles of driving.
As before, after setting overnight or a couple of hours the pressure was OK for a few miles, eventually dropping to 0.
This time:
As I have cases of Oil to use, I bought 2 new Filters and 2 quarts of GUNK.
While the engine was still hot I drained the old Oil, which was Black as coal after only 700 miles and installed new Filter.
By this time the engine had cooled considerably.
I added the 2 qts. of GUNK and 2 qts. of new 10w30.
My idea was that the higher concentration of GUNK would get more crap out of the Oil system.
I ran the engine about 7 minutes, until the Water Temp started to rise.
I drained the oil and removed the contaminated Oil Filter.
I let it continue to drip out over night.
In the AM I installed a new Filter and this time added 20w50 (High Mileage?) Oil.
I immediately got a good pressure reading.
While driving, the Pressure Gauge read from 80-90 @ 2k RPM to about 40 @ idle.
As opposed to readings of 70 and 30 after the last GUNK/Oil change.
I understand the pressure will be higher with the thicker Oil and I may go back to 10w30 @ next Oil change.
Side note:
The label on the GUNK container states that on higher mileage engines, the procedure may have to be repeated.
So this makes the second time I used it.
Also, it says that after its use, the Oil Pan and Oil Pump Pick Screen may have to be removed and cleaned.
Hopefully, this will get me past 700 miles and through February and when the weather turns warm again, I will definitely clean the Oil Pan and Oil Pump Pick Screen.
BTW, I am not endorsing a product one way or the other.
I am merely sharing my problem and how I'm progressing.
My advise is that you change your Oil on regular Mileage/Time schedule, so this doesn't happen to your vehicle.
Updates will continue...
I understand that the Oil Pump Pick-up Screen is clogging and the only real fix is to drop the Oil Pan and clean it out including the Screen.
But being old and slower than I used to be, I just don't have time or patience to do that until I can license and drive my Miata in February 2013.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The initial problem was the that Oil Pressure would drop to 0 then rebound and after 10 Highway miles it dropped to 0 and stayed there.
That was when the Lifter noise started
I added a bottle of Rislone Oil Treatment but them my Lifters were clacking louder by the time I got home.
Next, I changed the Oil/Filter and the Oil Pressure was good and fluctuated as expected @ given RPM.
But after 150 miles, the Oil Pressure began dropping to 0 after a few miles.
So:
I bought a quart of GUNK Engine Flush and followed the "Label Instructions."
I waited until the AM when the engine was cold.
I added the GUNK and ran the engine for 5 minutes then jacked the truck up and drained the Oil, letting it drip for an hour trying to get most of the Gunk contaminated Oil out of it.
I changed the Filter and added new 10w30.
The Oil Pressure was 70 @ 2k RPM and 30 @ idle and after a week I thought the problem was solved.
700 miles later, the Oil Pressure dropped to 0 after a few miles of driving.
As before, after setting overnight or a couple of hours the pressure was OK for a few miles, eventually dropping to 0.
This time:
As I have cases of Oil to use, I bought 2 new Filters and 2 quarts of GUNK.
While the engine was still hot I drained the old Oil, which was Black as coal after only 700 miles and installed new Filter.
By this time the engine had cooled considerably.
I added the 2 qts. of GUNK and 2 qts. of new 10w30.
My idea was that the higher concentration of GUNK would get more crap out of the Oil system.
I ran the engine about 7 minutes, until the Water Temp started to rise.
I drained the oil and removed the contaminated Oil Filter.
I let it continue to drip out over night.
In the AM I installed a new Filter and this time added 20w50 (High Mileage?) Oil.
I immediately got a good pressure reading.
While driving, the Pressure Gauge read from 80-90 @ 2k RPM to about 40 @ idle.
As opposed to readings of 70 and 30 after the last GUNK/Oil change.
I understand the pressure will be higher with the thicker Oil and I may go back to 10w30 @ next Oil change.
Side note:
The label on the GUNK container states that on higher mileage engines, the procedure may have to be repeated.
So this makes the second time I used it.
Also, it says that after its use, the Oil Pan and Oil Pump Pick Screen may have to be removed and cleaned.
Hopefully, this will get me past 700 miles and through February and when the weather turns warm again, I will definitely clean the Oil Pan and Oil Pump Pick Screen.
BTW, I am not endorsing a product one way or the other.
I am merely sharing my problem and how I'm progressing.
My advise is that you change your Oil on regular Mileage/Time schedule, so this doesn't happen to your vehicle.
Updates will continue...
Last edited by X-Raycer; Oct 22, 2012 at 02:03 PM.
I would strongly suggest that you verify with a mechanical gauge what you actually have for oil pressure and would advise you to be careful with higher than rated viscosity oils. I had a prelude that I thought would run better with 10w40 not so. Over pressurized the system on a cool day blew the oil filter off and jammed the relief valve in the oil pump.


