You should Turn the wrench on the Fan Clutch Bolt Counter Clock Wise and the water pump pully would need tension clock wise.. (reference the pully as the clock so to speak)

Remember.. the Fan spins counter clock wise.. thus the nut does too.. so anytime you have a fan like that the nut is going to be the opposite of the fan direction.. else it would untighten on its own.. Just some words of wisdom for anyone's reference in the future.. Your going to really need to put some force on it.. to hold the pully and force on the nut.. but once it breaks loose it will.

 

Oh trust me I was putting lots of pressure on that nut. My pulley tool is long enough to rest on the edge of the right quarter panel, from there I put on an adjustable wrench with a cheater bar and pulled and hammered.

 

I've done two of them and did both of them with a strap wrench to hold the pully

 

Mine was very tight too, had to take water pump off and took it to performance auto and he put an air chisel on it to break it free filed down the gouge and put it back on, it was on there good . Oh and standard threads on those

 

IF you have a cheater bar.. and can secure the other or hold it.. take a mallet and give it some wacks..

 

Know anyone with an air tool that may have a what do they call them a side breaker its like an open end wrench attachment but then thats a big nut on that thing.

jondakotaguy suggestion sounds great but if I did such a thing I would probably put a big dent in my truck the first time it skipped off the cheater bar.

Be careful doing that is all im saying

 

You mean one of these?

That tool is the best thing ever invented for removing fan clutches. I've used one a few times and it never failed to remove the clutch first try.

 

yes thats it but at $115.98 ouch and you need an air tool

 

Ya that tool would be pretty sweet but way to much money. I am going to try a torch and air chisel. I really don't want to remove the water pump if I don't have to.

 

5 pound hand sledge hammer, 24" long steel 1/2" thick rod with a squared end. And then maybe with your tool it will break free.

Personally I found a single steel bar with a bolt welded to it, went underneath the engine with the belt off, put it in there and turned it till it was touching the frame below, then pounded the nut with the steel rod, and pounded a huge 2 inch adjustable wrench till it broke free.