Any one know of a good additive to clean the valves. 3.9 2002


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Gumout Regane is a good one. The High Mileage version has the highest concentration of Polyetheramine (PEA) in it. PEA is a very strong fuel injector/fuel system cleaner. Red Line Si-1 is good too, so is Chevron Techron. With Techron you need to get the concentrated version, not the Pro-Gard injector cleaner. Regane, Red Line and Techron are the best in-the-tank cleaners you can buy. The others like STP are mostly just kerosene. Lucas fuel cleaner is mostly just a light base oil, it does no real cleaning. BG 44K is a very good cleaner too, but is very expensive and that is only when you can find it for sale. BG is mostly used at professional garages. If the fuel system or valves are in bad shape it is best to start out with an induction cleaning system, like BG or Everwear. Most tire shops and garages do one or the other of those. There is also a 3M DIY induction kit you can buy at Autozone for about $30.00 but I don't know anyone who has used it, so I have no idea how good or bad it may be. Once the fuel system is clean then you can get the most benefit from using an in the tank cleaner every 3,000 to 5,000 miles to keep it clean.

Jimmy

 

It has almost 75k miles on it. I already used valve doctor the mechanic that I went to recommended it but didn't help much. Out of all these do you know the best additive for the job?


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use ONLY marvel mystery oil. been using it for 3 decades. 3 oz in 10 gal of gas, it may take it a tank or two. my dak starts so fast its scary

 

My personal preference for in the tank fuel additives is Regane High Mileage. It works very well and can be bought at Walmart or Advance Auto Parts. Red Line is good too but it is hard to find. Pep Boys sells it.

I use Marvel Mystery Oil too. I add it in at every fuel fill, have been using it for several years now. One of the beneficial properties of MMO is that it is a gentle fuel system cleaner but it is not nearly as strong as PEA. In fact MMO has no PEA in it. MMO does a great job but the system needs to be clean first before you start using MMO regularly.

Jimmy

 

Thanks for the info. I'll be going to the part store today. Hopefully my valves will stop clicking


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to:01SilverCC it is clear that you know a lot of things i dont. i have been reading BITOG for a long time. and i still dont know what PEA is. allso, its clear, a lot of the cats on BITOG know way more than ill ever know. i am for sure the OLD SCHOOL type.

 

If you really talk to real 'old timers' they will tell you how they used to poor transmission fluid down the intake and run the horse **** out of the engine.

LOL I dont think i would do that on these kegger intakes though.

 

TO:
jondakotaguy yep you are right about the old timers. but i think i can call my self an old timer. i was at the first NHRA national drags in greatbend ks 1955. does that make me an old timer? do you know what a crub feeler, smitys is?

 

Don't know how you'd do it with fuel injection, but back in the day of the carburetor we used to clean the entire combustion chamber with water (yes, water). We'd pour water slowly down the carb, just balancing it so that the engine struggled but didn't die. Cleaned everything real well; guess you'd call it steam cleaning. Had to be careful not to get too wild and pour it in fast enough to hydrolock the engine (water isn't compressible). Obviously, not a good thing.
There are petroleum products such as Seafoam that can be used as I describe, and I think they'll kill the combustion process before reaching the hydrolock point.