Anybody here done it?

More I look at it, the better idea it becomes, even on a NA motor. I just can't find any data for NA applications.

We keep a 55 gal drum of methanol in the shop so source isn't one bit of a problem. I have a 1" spacer under my TB so a tap point for the nozzle isn't a problem, but I have to use a cutoff solenoid.

I'm running a 91 tune on 93 pump and I still get pinging if I really lay into it (WOT 4200+ under load), so I think this is a good budget build, esp if it lets me move up to the 93 tune (although it's ridiculously iffy on the street). It's just one of Sean's can-tunes, I've not been on a dyno to see what needs fixing/adustment, but with the big rockers and the other work I've done to it, they'll be some adjustment needed once I hit the dyno and get some O2 readings.

I don't care for it on the street, I can just close the port on the tank and drain it out. For racing I can set it up on a WOT switch.

This page has alot of info: http://www.markphillips.net/wi.html but again, for boosted.

This page (with the minimum 1 boost) says 1.26 GPH nozzle...could probably get away with a 1GPH nozzle, but I'll go bigger: http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/nozzle-selector.php

So I'm looking at:

120ml/min / 2 GPH nozzle $20 http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...zzles-do2.html

2 quart tank $16 http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...uart-tank.html

cutoff solenoid $54 http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...-solenoid.html

Since I'm NA, I don't think I need a pump- the engine vacuum can siphon the mixture straight off the tank? If the tank is below the injection point (TB spacer) do I still have to pump it up the hill? I can get a small 9psi pump like we have on the camaro's secondary injection system pretty cheapily.

 

The only problem I can see here is that you're not going to have much, if any vacuum at WOT. I think you're still going to need a pump.

 

yep need a pump. and a good way to close it off. ie a check valve that is opened by the pump. the check valve set lower the pump pressure. so when the pump is off the check valve will keep the methanol from draining. check out www.clippard.com they have the check valve and other fittings you need.

 

I already found sources but I'll look there.

I emailed hemifever, he said that for what I'm doing, I only need methanol, not the water component so much, he suggested a 80/20 meth/water ratio.

I'm going to put this on the back burner for now, I make 13 passes tonight without a bit pf ping under load...but on the way home part throttle, it did. So I think it's just a matter of pulling a couple degs of timing here and there.

 

i have been thinking of doing same thing but only for low RPM, to get better low end power. would meth injection do that at low rpm? my high end power is fine.

 

If i get a meth injector put on me will I loose a few pounds? Do i have to stop drinking beer? LOL

 

1. gasoline is for washing parts.
2. alcohol is for drinking.
3. nitro is for racing.

 

So talking with Hemifever, here's my plan (Sean's differs a bit, trying to make an agreeable consensus)-

Put the timing at 32 degrees (Can tune is 28) and maybe try 34 if 32 works well. 100% meth, no water.

Put one 1GPH injector under each barrel in my TB spacer, on each side, tee at the firewall.

Put one 1-gal tank on each side of the truck, not sure where yet, thinking rear fenderwells behind protective panels

200psi pump - $145 - http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...duct_info.html

2x Tee fitting - $36 - http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedispl...tortee&picid=3

2x 1GPH nozzle w/ holder - $54 - http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...duct_info.html

30 ft tubing - $30 - http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...duct_info.html

Total- $265

In the short term, I'm going to figure out where/how to mount the meth tanks, drill and tap the TB spacer, and put 3 plugs in the spacer, 1 for each injector on the side facing eachother (cross-spray), and a third on the face for potential future use (3rd nozzle?).

Not that expensive till you hit that pump....

Also going to do the torque convertor lockup mod so I can lock it up right after the 1-2 shift. They claim it'll shave 2-3 seconds off the 0-60mph time...seeing as I'm 1/8 mile trapping 11.13 @ 63, I can't see it moving more than a half or 3/4 second, but it's something.

 

So I had a BUNCH of math wrong last night. Here's the correct numerology:

1 gallon in 35 minutes = 3785 mL in 35 minutes = 108 mL/min = 1.8 mL/second

1 GPH = 63 mL/min = 1.05 mL/second

I'm thinking a single 1GPH is PLENTY now that I have correct numbers. It's an extra 58% of fuel.

That's alot of extra fuel to be putting down the motor (captain obvious, I know) so the battle from there will be having enough air in the cylinder to burn the fuel.

Even though Meth has a lower BTU/energy rating, as long as there's enough air to support the combustion, I think it'll all work. It's going to be rich without a doubt.

I'm still looking at tank mount options, but with only nozzle, I only need one tank (which I forgot to add in above).

$145 pump
$27 nozzle/holder
$20 tubing, 20 ft
$40 tank

= $232

And I'm also thinking to inject pre-throttle body to give the fuel a chance to mix with the air, going to make removing the hat/airtube a PITA, but I might figure something out.

I high-balled the tank. Looking around, found this- http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/def...lickid=popcorn

The 5 gallon ( http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...4279&catid=934 ) would be nice if I didn't have a spare tire, could put the filler neck behind the license plate.

 

I took a closer look at the TB area today.

1) pre-TB is not happening, unless I mount the nozzle in the airbox aimed at the hose....even then, it'll be pretty obvious. As much as I take the hat/hose/lid on and off, I don't want to mount directly to it

2) Can't put an injector on pass side, throttle linkage is there. The front barely clears the MAP, other side clears the TPS by a mile. Looks like I'll be injecting right under the MAP. Under the IAC might be possible, I need to look at it more. It would be semi-hidden that way, but would also not get a direct airstream over the nozzle (the front would have a better chance). A taller spacer would be nice in this situation.

3) The best tank position I've found so far is between the stock tank, and the cab. Still don't know how I'd fill it. Under the hood won't be happening. Between the frame rails is too hard to get to. I have a Line-x liner so I can't put a door in the floor of the bed. I've needed my spare, so I'm not swapping it for a tank that happens to line up with the license plate.

I've not explored the other side of the bed, opposite the fuel tank. I may be able to put a hidden door in the forward inner fender, or make that whole panel easily removable or simply hinged. The 6 quart tank ($11) might fit perfectly on the other side?

$145 pump
$27 nozzle/holder
$17 tubing, 17 ft
$11 tank

= $200