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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:05 AM
  #21  
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ha ha WOW those are some roached brakes

Im lucky no rust living in Arizona just dust

The rust you do see is from when I lived in CA we do get a fair amount of winter rain
 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Oct 11, 2012 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 12:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 98DAKAZ
ha ha WOW those are some roached brakes

Im lucky no rust living in Arizona just dust

The rust you do see is from when I lived in CA we do get a fair amount of winter rain
Yes, unfortunately the biggest cause of death for cars up here is rust from putting salt on the roads to melt the ice in the winter. These videos are probably worthless but I will post them anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woD_BKEMG4o&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wawereT7uZg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwyGcuaMckg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRyYqSh5lKg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDHGC_7i5ws&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 01:01 PM
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let me know if the links work
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 04:19 PM
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Thanks for the pics and videos. I just got home not long ago so I probably won't be doing any brake work today. I appreciate the info. I bought all my parts today and I went ahead and splurged, spent $45.00 on a MityVac brake bleeder vacuum tool at Harbor Freight. The other cheaper one did not look to be anywhere close to the quality of the MityVac, and it was only $10.00 difference in price. I will post with pics on here when I get my brakes done. I am just going to replace them anyway, my truck turned over 152K today. It is time.

Jimmy
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 05:08 PM
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My bleeder a coke bottle and 3 feet of hose works great a little jumping in and out to get it done but simple and works.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 09:23 PM
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Here i am really surprised no one said this, if they did i missed it..get the rear up take off both tires and drums, look at em real hard..LOL then do 1 side at a time if ya get stuck go look at other side..there mirror images of each other..or snap a pic with your phone use it for reference..1st time a lil intimidating, then you'll enjoy doin em ..maybe not but i hope this helps
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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Edit: I spent $35.00 on the MityVac, not $45.00. It should help get the jpb done a lot easier. Plus I may need it again some time on my front brakes or to pull a vacuum on some other part or component. It was worth the investment and looks to be much better built than the $25.00 Pittsburgh cheapo version.

Jimmy
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by EricBing
Here i am really surprised no one said this, if they did i missed it..get the rear up take off both tires and drums, look at em real hard..LOL then do 1 side at a time if ya get stuck go look at other side..there mirror images of each other..or snap a pic with your phone use it for reference..1st time a lil intimidating, then you'll enjoy doin em ..maybe not but i hope this helps
Definately - raise the rear up so both wheels are off the ground. After you do one side, you will want to rotate the drum to make sure it is not too tight. And yes, the first thing I did when I got the drum off was take pics of the set up of the shoes, springs, and hardware. I found the haynes manual was the best for reinstalling the parts, I followed their step by step. On another forum there was a lot of talk about the front shoe pad is smaller than the rear (or vice versa) and it would be easy to mix them up. On my brakes, you couldn't mix them up - the shoes had specific features that dictated which was front and wich was the rear.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 12:49 AM
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Well I decided to leave well enough alone with my rear brakes. I did a test tonight in an empty parking lot where I got up to 20 mph or so and used the parking brake instead of the brake pedal to stop the truck. When I did it that way the shimmy/vibration problem was not there. So the truck probably needs the front rotors turned or just replaced. Around here new rotors don't cost much more than having your old rotors resurfaced, if you can find a place that even still turns rotors any more.

I did remove my rear wheels and brake drums and cleaned and inspected the rear brakes tonight anyway. They are in great shape, especially for 152K. There is plenty more material left on the shoes, and all of the springs, hardware and wheel cylinders are in great shape. I will hit the insides of the drums with some emery cloth and adjust the rear brakes and put it all back together again in the morning, but I am not replacing anything. I will take back all of the parts I bought yesterday, including the MityVac and get a refund. The truck has a bit of a vibration at 60 to 70 mph, so I am planning on taking it to the tire store and get the wheels balanced tomorrow. I don't get to drive on the interstate very often now but I took a trip to Tampa yesterday and noticed the vibration was pretty bad. I even stopped and asked at two different tire stores if they had time to balance my wheels. They both were too busy so I just came on back home.

Like they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I am just really impressed with how well my truck is built and how good of shape it is in to be 12 years old with 152,000 miles on it. Dakota's are damn good trucks.

Jimmy
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 07:13 AM
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01SilverCC

You should just do them now and be done with it then you are set for another 152K.

The reason the rear brakes last so long is the self-adjusters don’t work in these trucks.

This is a fact that they don’t work at all best is to adjust them by hand every 6 months
 
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