no pictures because i didn't even think about it as i was doing it. also i didn't take the dash all the way out nor the hvac system. i loosened the hvac system enough to pull the passenger side away from the firewall which exposed the problem enough for me to seal it.. there was something on the heater core (driver side) side still holding the hvac against the firewall that i was unable to locate. so no i didn't replace the heater core. the fan motor seems like it is easy enough to do with dash and everything in place. my fan connections have been all replaced which was a problem i had previously.

 

Just a tip for anyone else who reads this post for future reference. While mine was at the shop they said that the ac would drip out the tube but it waould just roll over and leak back in through the firewall. Apparently this was a re-call dodge had a few years ago. They put silicone around the firewall and an o-ring around the tube to stop the leaking onto the passenger floor panel.

 

this is true but mine turned out to not be this ^^ problem. mine was a cracked tube...


dash is all in and i can't get a/c to work yet to test to see if water issue has been resolved yet. i changed the accumulator because the bottom tube coming out the fire wall which i think is the high pressure side keeps freezing up. it seems to stop freezing where the oriface tube is. the auto parts store sold me a replacement oriface tube but i think i read somewhere this is crimped into the tube and not serviceable. so i have to work the next 3 days and i will mess with it more on monday.

 

The orifice tube is not crimped in did you just insert a new one if so you now have two they tend to get pushed way back in the tube and need to be pressure pushed out I don’t have an air tool pump/tank so I used the DIY car wash pressure that pushed it out easy along with a face full of water.

Sounds like water in the system did you pull a vacuum on the system?

Actually it starts to freeze/cool at the orifice tube that is where the cooling starts

 

no i haven't even tried to pull the orifice tube yet. i bought one but then read it wasn't serviceable that i would need the whole metal line. monday i was going to try and pull it out anyways. and yes the freezing did appear to start at where i believe the orifice tube is located.

and yes i pulled vacuum on the system before recharging. i actually do a lot of my friends and family a/c systems so i have everything to do it. the vacuum pump and manifold gauges.

 

Ok then two things too much Freon or moisture in the system how long did you pull the vacuum I understand 15 minutes is ok but a lot of A/C Pro’s recommend 1 hour or longer to be sure its dry how strong is the pump its recommended a 2 CFM or 3 CFM pump to boil out the moisture

Great work on removing the dash something I will need to do soon.

 

may not have done it long enough. i usually just go till i hit -1 on my gauges say 5 min. either way i will change the filter since i changed the accumilator already too.
the dash is not a project i would likely do again.

 

You want to see a -30 PSI for at least 20 minutes of vacuum preferably 1 hour with a 2CFM vacuum pump then check for any leak down by letting it sit for 20 minutes after shutting the high and low side valves off at the gauge set and turning the pump off if it drops down to 0 you have a leak if it stays high in the – side you are probably ok but hopefully it stays about a -25 PSI to -30 PSI that’s the best.

You do know you pull a vacuum with both the high and low side valves open correct?

 

yes i know that you pull vacuum with both open and you have to manually spin the a/c compressor clutch a couple turns to get the last bit of pressure out. my gauges are different. -1atm is full vacuum.

 

What is -1atm? -1 atmosphere

Spinning the compressor is probably not needed unless the system was open for a day or two but can’t hurt but a new A/C Receiver Drier/Accumulator will get the small amount of moisture that may be in the system after a vacuum

Ok just trying to help never seen a gauge set with that kind of markings atm?

ls that for home A/C WORK?

I stopped renting gauge sets from auto stores because you never know what nasty old oil or chemicals the last person used the gauge set on/for people use things wrong all the time so the gauge set could be contaminated.