"digital supplemental dash" project (need wire data!)
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 184
From: Fort Worth, TX
"digital supplemental dash" project (need wire data!)
Display: 14 cols x 6 rows
Here's what I'm looking to get:
1. Battery voltage
2. MAP voltage - need lookup table (compare to a vacuum gauge?)
3. Oil sender voltage - need lookup table
4. Water sender voltage - need lookup table (can get 185.5 and 190 based on fan cycling)
5. Trans temp voltage - need lookup table
6. IAT - need lookup table (Can use thermistor on multimeter to get comparative values)
7. Left pre-O2 - need lookup table
8. Right pre-O2 - need lookup table
The display is small, maybe 2 inches square, but would get the job done. I use it on my weather station right now. I figure I can put the display in the old ashtray area (mines all kinds of broke, been wanting to do something with it)
Here's what I'm looking to get:
1. Battery voltage
2. MAP voltage - need lookup table (compare to a vacuum gauge?)
3. Oil sender voltage - need lookup table
4. Water sender voltage - need lookup table (can get 185.5 and 190 based on fan cycling)
5. Trans temp voltage - need lookup table
6. IAT - need lookup table (Can use thermistor on multimeter to get comparative values)
7. Left pre-O2 - need lookup table
8. Right pre-O2 - need lookup table
The display is small, maybe 2 inches square, but would get the job done. I use it on my weather station right now. I figure I can put the display in the old ashtray area (mines all kinds of broke, been wanting to do something with it)
Last edited by magnethead; Nov 8, 2012 at 04:09 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Legend
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 184
From: Fort Worth, TX
I found this looking through the FSM:
Page 1804 of FSM (trans temp sender):
Page 722 of FSM:
The trans temp signal is a GY/BK wire
Page 718 of the FSM (IAT and coolant):
IAT and coolant sensors sink off the computer, so the biasing resistor is inside the PCM. But that's okay, I'll still be tapping on the voltage divider. I can also assume the trans temp uses the same configuration. I'll want to double check with a multimeter, of course. I want to tap the black/red wire of the IAT and not-black wire of the coolant sensor.
Page 717 of FSM (Oil Pres):
The oil pressure sensor follows the same procedure of the temp sensors. I just tap the not-black wire.
Page 1374 of FSM (O2's):
Page 704 of FSM (O2's):
The S139 drive circuit is on page 8W-70-3, and comes from Joint connector 3 in the PDC (telling me that the input may be unregulated)
I'm only concerned with the upstream O2's (What's actually coming out of the engine, uncleaned)
Upstream 1/1 has a black/light blue drive circuit and black/dark green signal circuit
Upstream 2/1 has a black/light blue drive circuit and light green/red signal circuit
page 1371 of FSM (MAP):
Page 716 of FSM (MAP):
The TPS and MAP use a common ground and common 5V line. MAP signal is tapped off the DG/RD wire.
1. Battery voltage - easy
2. MAP voltage - tap DG/RD wire (dark green/red)
3. Oil sender voltage - tap GY/YL (gray/yellow) wire
4. Water sender voltage - tap TN/BK wire (tan/black)
5. Trans temp voltage - tap GY/BK (gray/black) wire (pin 8)
6. IAT - tap BK/RD (black/red) wire
7. Left pre-O2 - tap connector (wire unsure)
8. Right pre-O2 - tap connector (wire unsure)
===========
Also, lockup solenoid mod: Pin 7 (orange/black) on the trans connector is the sinking control for the clutch solenoid. Take a relay, common to the solenoid wire, NC to the PCM, NO to a solid ground (With a 5 amp fuse to be safe). Energize the coil and the convertor should lock up.
Page 1804 of FSM (trans temp sender):
Transmission fluid temperature readings are supplied to the transmission control module by the thermistor (Fig. 260). The temperature readings are used to control engagement of the fourth gear overdrive clutch, the converter clutch, and governor pressure. Normal resistance value for the thermistor at room temperature is approximately 1000 ohms.
The thermistor is part of the governor pressure sensor assembly and is immersed in transmission fluid at all times.
The thermistor is part of the governor pressure sensor assembly and is immersed in transmission fluid at all times.
The trans temp signal is a GY/BK wire
Page 718 of the FSM (IAT and coolant):
IAT and coolant sensors sink off the computer, so the biasing resistor is inside the PCM. But that's okay, I'll still be tapping on the voltage divider. I can also assume the trans temp uses the same configuration. I'll want to double check with a multimeter, of course. I want to tap the black/red wire of the IAT and not-black wire of the coolant sensor.
Page 717 of FSM (Oil Pres):
The oil pressure sensor follows the same procedure of the temp sensors. I just tap the not-black wire.
Page 1374 of FSM (O2's):
An O2 sensor is a galvanic battery that provides the PCM with a voltage signal (0-1 volt) inversely proportional to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. In other words, if the oxygen content is low, the volt- age output is high; if the oxygen content is high the output voltage is low. The PCM uses this information to adjust injector pulse-width to achieve the 14.7–to–1 air/fuel ratio necessary for proper engine operation and to control emissions.
The O2 sensor must have a source of oxygen from outside of the exhaust stream for comparison. Current O2 sensors receive their fresh oxygen (outside air) supply through the wire harness. This is why it is important to never solder an O2 sensor connector, or pack the connector with grease.
Four wires (circuits) are used on each O2 sensor: a 12–volt feed circuit for the sensor heating element; a ground circuit for the heater element; a low-noise sensor return circuit to the PCM, and an input circuit from the sensor back to the PCM to detect sen- sor operation.
The O2 sensor must have a source of oxygen from outside of the exhaust stream for comparison. Current O2 sensors receive their fresh oxygen (outside air) supply through the wire harness. This is why it is important to never solder an O2 sensor connector, or pack the connector with grease.
Four wires (circuits) are used on each O2 sensor: a 12–volt feed circuit for the sensor heating element; a ground circuit for the heater element; a low-noise sensor return circuit to the PCM, and an input circuit from the sensor back to the PCM to detect sen- sor operation.
The S139 drive circuit is on page 8W-70-3, and comes from Joint connector 3 in the PDC (telling me that the input may be unregulated)
I'm only concerned with the upstream O2's (What's actually coming out of the engine, uncleaned)
Upstream 1/1 has a black/light blue drive circuit and black/dark green signal circuit
Upstream 2/1 has a black/light blue drive circuit and light green/red signal circuit
page 1371 of FSM (MAP):
A 5 volt reference is supplied from the PCM and returns a voltage signal to the PCM that reflects manifold pressure. The zero pressure reading is 0.5V and full scale is 4.5V. For a pressure swing of 0–15 psi, the voltage changes 4.0V. To operate the sensor, it is supplied a regulated 4.8 to 5.1 volts. Ground is provided through the low-noise, sensor return circuit at the PCM.
The TPS and MAP use a common ground and common 5V line. MAP signal is tapped off the DG/RD wire.
1. Battery voltage - easy
2. MAP voltage - tap DG/RD wire (dark green/red)
3. Oil sender voltage - tap GY/YL (gray/yellow) wire
4. Water sender voltage - tap TN/BK wire (tan/black)
5. Trans temp voltage - tap GY/BK (gray/black) wire (pin 8)
6. IAT - tap BK/RD (black/red) wire
7. Left pre-O2 - tap connector (wire unsure)
8. Right pre-O2 - tap connector (wire unsure)
===========
Also, lockup solenoid mod: Pin 7 (orange/black) on the trans connector is the sinking control for the clutch solenoid. Take a relay, common to the solenoid wire, NC to the PCM, NO to a solid ground (With a 5 amp fuse to be safe). Energize the coil and the convertor should lock up.
Last edited by magnethead; Nov 12, 2012 at 01:59 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Legend
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 184
From: Fort Worth, TX
So here's where I'm at. I need to look at the upstream O2's specifically and see what wire colors are there, and check the other sensors to verify wire colors and voltages with a multimeter.
1. Battery voltage - easy
2. MAP voltage - tap DG/RD wire (dark green/red) - pin 2 - 18 gauge
3. Oil sender voltage - tap GY/YL (gray/yellow) wire - pin 2 - 16 gauge
4. Water sender voltage - tap TN/BK wire (tan/black) - pin 2 - 18 gauge
5. Trans temp voltage - tap GY/BK (gray/black) wire - pin 8 - 18 gauge
6. IAT - tap BK/RD (black/red) wire - pin 2 - 18 gauge
7. Left pre-O2 - tap (Black/Dark Green OR Light Green/Red) - pin 3 - 18 gauge
8. Right pre-O2 - tap (Black/Dark Green OR Light Green/Red) - pin 3 - 18 gauge
I'm not sure how to do the connections yet. I don't want to use cheesy trailer taps, but I don't want to cut-and-splice into a factory wiring harness in case I screw something up.
On the other hand, for about twice what ti would cost me, I could try an Ultragauge. The only bummer is that it doesn't support trans temp (supposedly), which is what I need most. On the other hand, I can add an autometer trans gauge and tap the pan, which is what I planned on in the first place before I thought about tapping every wire under the hood...
http://ultra-gauge.com/ZC/index.php?...products_id=16
1. Battery voltage - easy
2. MAP voltage - tap DG/RD wire (dark green/red) - pin 2 - 18 gauge
3. Oil sender voltage - tap GY/YL (gray/yellow) wire - pin 2 - 16 gauge
4. Water sender voltage - tap TN/BK wire (tan/black) - pin 2 - 18 gauge
5. Trans temp voltage - tap GY/BK (gray/black) wire - pin 8 - 18 gauge
6. IAT - tap BK/RD (black/red) wire - pin 2 - 18 gauge
7. Left pre-O2 - tap (Black/Dark Green OR Light Green/Red) - pin 3 - 18 gauge
8. Right pre-O2 - tap (Black/Dark Green OR Light Green/Red) - pin 3 - 18 gauge
I'm not sure how to do the connections yet. I don't want to use cheesy trailer taps, but I don't want to cut-and-splice into a factory wiring harness in case I screw something up.
On the other hand, for about twice what ti would cost me, I could try an Ultragauge. The only bummer is that it doesn't support trans temp (supposedly), which is what I need most. On the other hand, I can add an autometer trans gauge and tap the pan, which is what I planned on in the first place before I thought about tapping every wire under the hood...
http://ultra-gauge.com/ZC/index.php?...products_id=16
Last edited by magnethead; Nov 12, 2012 at 02:51 AM.