brake upgrade question
Ok i have a 01 4.7L quad cab 4x4 dakota and i was looking to upgrade my brakes to something with a dual piston. I found out that the 03/04 dakota / durango have the dual piston calipers in front and single caliper in the rear.
Now for the front i heard that it would work i would just need to take the spindle, banjo fitting plus the rotor and pads. the part i dont know is will the rear rotor setup drop in place of my drum brakes or is there something else i would need??
Also do u think i should take the brake booster since i am increasing to a larger caliper for the front?
Now for the front i heard that it would work i would just need to take the spindle, banjo fitting plus the rotor and pads. the part i dont know is will the rear rotor setup drop in place of my drum brakes or is there something else i would need??
Also do u think i should take the brake booster since i am increasing to a larger caliper for the front?
Are you having problems stopping that’s why you want to change them or you just feel the duel piston would be an improvement? I thought about doing this but then I said do I really have stopping problems and the answer was no so I moved on to more important mods
well stopping i can do just wanted to see if i could get better stopping having the dual piston capilers. plus with the weight i usually have in the truck i firgured it would help stop the truck with out hitting the brakes so hard.
I wouldn't worry much about the booster. All it does is help you apply the brakes. The master cylinder, that I'd check on. It may have different sized pistons than for your current single piston brakes.
You may also need to replace the combination valve, MAY. It helps set up your brake bias front to rear.
You'll need all the pieces for the back, the caliper support bracket, rotors, etc. Are you getting this from a parts truck? Don't forget the e-brake cable is different.
Have you tried using a different set of front pads in your current setup? They don't all stop the same way. Properly adjusted rear DRUM brakes are also very effective AND have the advantage of being self energizing. Thoroughly check out your rear brakes. It's somewhat common for them not to be doing much of anything, as in the wheel cylinders have frozen.
You may also need to replace the combination valve, MAY. It helps set up your brake bias front to rear.
You'll need all the pieces for the back, the caliper support bracket, rotors, etc. Are you getting this from a parts truck? Don't forget the e-brake cable is different.
Have you tried using a different set of front pads in your current setup? They don't all stop the same way. Properly adjusted rear DRUM brakes are also very effective AND have the advantage of being self energizing. Thoroughly check out your rear brakes. It's somewhat common for them not to be doing much of anything, as in the wheel cylinders have frozen.
well i have tried accouple different pads and as of so far they last about 2 years with the same type of stopping power. this is pretty much in lots of stop and go traffic with about 500-1000 lbs of tools in the truck at any given time with the occasional trailer. As for where the parts are coming its from a junk yard that i found accouple durango sxt with all the parts still on the vehicle.
Did you check the rear brake cylinders they are deceiving they can look ok at a quick look but may be frozen and doing nothing or very weak at $13 a cylinder it’s a cheap swap out just be very careful with the break line you don’t want to snap a line off.
Also have you ever flushed all the old DOT 3 out of your system especially the rear lines?
Also have you ever flushed all the old DOT 3 out of your system especially the rear lines?
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Nov 18, 2012 at 04:48 PM.
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well last year i had to refill the whole truck with new fluid cause my steel line in the middle of the truck going to the rear rust out and blew up. so i had to replace the line and refill all to DOT 4
DOT 4 will do nothing for the average auto a waste of $$ and may even damage seals a low possability but it can happen if your auto calls for DOT 3 stick with it
Check those rear cylinders http://www.ehow.com/video_2327539_in...-cylinder.html
Check those rear cylinders http://www.ehow.com/video_2327539_in...-cylinder.html
98DAKAZ according the video you linked me when i changed all the spring everything was fine cause there was no leaks and the pistons were moving freely as i was taking everything off and putting on the new springs. so it leads me to believe that the rear drums are fine.
btw to be exact i changed the spings back in september.
btw to be exact i changed the spings back in september.







