This is going to be kind of the condensed version, since I only took a few pictures and I already did the job. So, I'm working from memory (which, for various reasons, isn't so good, lol). If you have any specific questions or want pictures of certain parts, just ask and I'll see what I can do.

Here is my truck before I took the torch to it. This is with a 5.5" Tuff Country lift kit and 33" tires:

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I found and purchased a Dana 44 out of a 1983 Jeep J10 pickup. This axle has approximately a 65" width, left side diff, and a 6x5.5" bolt pattern (which works with my wheels, since I was running 1" spacers/adapters already). The axle was supposedly a 2.73 ratio but when I opened it up to inspect it, I found everything in great shape with 4.10 gears.

I chose to keep it simple with leaf springs, so it was necessary to build a front crossmember for the spring hangers to attach to. I used 3x6" rectangular tubing and notched it for the front radiator support.


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Then I boxed it in and welded brackets on the ends to bolt to the bumper holes in the frame (it will also be welded to the frame).


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After temporarily installing the crossmember and putting the spring hangers in place, I noticed that the spring hangers were going to be hanging way off the crossmember, either to the front or the rear, depending on how I installed them. I decided to hang them off the rear for a cleaner look and made some gussets to strengthen them. They will eventually be tied into the second crossmember (that replaced the huge one under the steering box).


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Here's the crossmember bolted in the truck before the hangers were welded on. The foglights are attached to the gigantic factory crossmember and will be removed with the crossmember.


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Next step was to cut off the IFS. I made the rough cuts with a Sawzall, then went back and trimmed all the brackets with a torch and grinder.


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Once everything was out of the way, I stuck the new axle under the truck and after carefully measuring and aligning everything, tacked everything in place (I got ahead of myself with the spring hangers in the last post. They were actually tacked on in this step, then the crossmember was removed for them to be welded completely.) I used leaf spring sliders instead of shackles for the rear of the springs to make installation a little easier. I can't wait to see how they work. Here's the view from the front.


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When I put the wheels on, I encountered a slight problem. Even though they're 16" wheels, the large amount of positive offset caused the TRE to contact the edge of the rim. Obviously, I'm either going to need new wheels (which aren't in the budget) or spacers. Spacers are the affordable choice, but the wheel studs are so short that I would only have about 2 threads left holding the wheels on. So I had to replace the studs with longer ones and I figured I might as well upgrade them from 7/16" to 1/2" at the same time.




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I was able to use the original upper shock mounts by welding on lower mounts to match.

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For steering, I bought a flat top knuckle and a steering arm for the right side. Then I used the stock Jeep drag link (that used to attach to the tie rod) in the steering arm, a Jeep TJ dropped Pitman arm, and a sleeve I made from DOM tube to attach them. It's hard to tell how much oil pan clearance there is in this picture, but it more than clears, even at full compression (limited by bump stops).

*EDIT*
The TJ Pitman arm ended up being a little too short, so I wasn't getting a very tight turning radius. So, I ended up switching it out for a dropped Wagoneer arm. The Wagoneer arm worked out perfectly and also let me run a larger tie rod end in it.


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I haven't driven it yet because I want to lift the rear to match the front first. I've got a block kit on order as a temporary means of doing that, and I'll probably end up with some custom leaf springs in the not-too-distant future. Also, I think the TJ Pitman arm is too short because my turning radius isn't what it should be. The plan is to try a Wagoneer arm instead and see how that works. Here's how it sits now.


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It actually looks pretty level because my driveway is sloped, but it's about 2-3" lower in back. I pretty much guessed at what springs to buy (ended up with Skyjacker 2-1/2" lift springs for a Ramcharger) so I wanted to wait until the front was done before I ordered parts to lift the back. I'm supposed to get the lift blocks on Wednesday, so hopefully I'll have time after work to put them on.

 

Sweet! Looks good.
Can you post up a picture on the mounts on the axle? As well as the sliders how they mounted up to the frame.

I didn't even think about the leaf spring sliders when I did my SAS. I remember reading a review on it a while back, I just completely forgot about them.

I would suggest using rod ends/heilm joints for the tie rods, they will be slimmer than the stock tie rods so they will fit with your wheels.

Later down the road install Warn manual locking hubs to save some MPG while driving in 2wd.

Where did you hook the drag link into, back into the stock location on the tie rod bar? For mine that was to steep of an angle I had to buy a cross-over steering knuckle to get it above the springs.

One thing I didn't come out great was at full lock of steering the tire corner rubs on the leaf springs. I'm going to have to get less back spacing wheels. Does yours clear?

 

I'll get some pictures of the spring mounts after work tomorrow. Basically, I just welded the sliders to the bottom of the frame rail and gusseted them on the inside of the frame.

I thought about using Heim joints, but I'm still a little bit skeptical about whether they'll hold up long term. Have you had any problems with yours wearing prematurely?

I already installed Warn manual hubs. And I used a high steer arm on the right side for the drag link to hook into. I couldn't use the tie rod hole because the tie rod is still under the springs and the drag link would have hit it when I turned.

I definitely don't have the problem of the tire hitting the spring. In fact, my turning radius kinda sucks right now. What Pitman arm are you using? I think my TJ arm is too short. Hopefully, the Wagoneer arm will be better. Also, I'm running a wide track axle and 8"wide rims, so that probably accounts for some of the difference. I'll report after I get around to installing the Wagoneer arm.

 

Do ya still have your IFS lift kit? Id love to get my hands on it and throw that on my dakota.

 

Yes, I do. I'm still using the shocks and the rear add-a-leafs, but I have everything else, plus some extras. Send me a PM and we can talk specifics.

 

No problems with my Heim joints. Still nice and tight. I first ordered some cheepies which had play to begin with. Sent them back, I then bought some nice HD ones with Kevalar liner to ensure no play. No problems since.

I used a TJ drop pitman arm. IIRC comparing it to the stock Dakota arm it was 1/2in or less shorter which would loose some turning but the Dakota didn't have great steering radius from factory anyways.

 

dude, sick write up.. where did you find the IFS lift kit? i cannot find it anywhere, for a 2000 dakota. my only option is a 3-4" BODY lift, wich i want, but i want to to a suspension lift.. aswell