Just to add, I would probably only use the 4wd once or twice a year. This will mainly be a truck to have for hauling my surfboards and every so often hauling a trailer and a dune buggy, and for camping.

If I rarely use the 4wd is it still prone to problems?

Also, it has a manual transmission. I know a lot of the auto's had problems, but the manuals seem to have less.

 

it's not the 4wd itself, but the way they did the suspension for 4wd vs 2wd. 2WD gets coil springs, 4WD gets torsion bars. But alot of the problem is dodge's very poorly designed balljoint problem (Bad on 2WD, stupid on 4WD). Some people are happy to get 50,000 miles to a set. My truck has 150K and i think I'm still on the stockers, no problems (2WD).

 

How heavy are those two? Have you looked at Rangers/S10s/Tacomas? The Dakota is not a small truck by any means...at least not in my eyes. I would also stay away from them if I was looking for MPGs.

 

The Dakota is a bit heavy for its size but I think that’s a plus the frame is very beefy strong and the body panels are thick steel very durable almost like a RAM that’s been shrunk up some.

Most Trucks now are all plastic and paper thin steel body panels same with most smaller trucks the same year as our Dakotas

I like my Dakota Im just saying any 4X4 has more upkeep to them so be aware of that fact.

 

My dune buggy and trailer is probably a bit over 2500lbs. I know this truck would be a bit larger than I need, but I do like the look of it and it does seem like a solid truck for the most part. I have a motorcycle that I use over 70% of the time, but I am just trying to make an educated decision in case gas prices raise, etc. I would probably drive this about 4-5k per year. I'm just trying to get an idea on some numbers for MPG. EPA estimates are never quite right.

I understand about the 4x4 having more potential for problems. As long as there are no major problems with it, I somewhat of a mechanic and should be able to deal with suspension problems if necessary.

 

I have the 2.5 engine but I do know the V6 and V8 get around 15 to 16 MPG low end and 19 to 20 high end from all the other posts on this forum.

There is not much that can be done to improve that but your driving habits

This year the 2nd-gen Dakota is the best for good looks best for any truck that same year span I think it will become a classic in years to come

 

Don't worry about getting a 4x4. They don't have any problems. Only thing different is you have to change fluid In the transfer case and Extra axle. My 98 was 4x4 and I used it almost every weekend and never had a problem with it.

 

I looked at the CL link you posted... The truck pictured is a 2005 or later body style, what's the build date inside the door panel?

 

My 2003 with the 4.7L gets about the same as this. I've gotten 17MPG on long, highway trips (if I keep my foot out of it). Once, I got 18.5, but that was when I fueled up on the grapevine and basically "coasted" all the way down the hill.

I have a 2003 ith 180k and the ball joints are fine. This was only a problem on the earlier 2nd gens, so an 04 would not have this issue.

+1! I agree!

This hasn't been the best "truck" I've owned, it's been the best "vehicle" I've owned (this coming from a guy who owned an E36 M3). For a big, clunky 4x4, the power is very usable and if you get the right tires on it, the thing handles great!

For 180k miles, I have driven my DAK like a pi$$ed-off teenager, and for all my lead-footing, 3 rear-endings, one "side-swipe" by a big-rig, countless wood-hauling excursions on logging roads, boat haulings, car haulings, wood trailer haulings, (and too much more to name), the DAK has taken it in stride! The only "disappointment" was when the clutches came loose on the rear diff, but even that didn't "stop" the truck; it kept driving, even with a handfull of metal shrapnel in the diff. I swaped out for a detroit tru-trak, and it's been rock-solid ever since! I will only sell this truck to a scrap yard, after the engine blows up (unless I decide to put another one in). I cannot say enough good things about this vehicle.

My advice is to look for one with the 4.7L V-8 and a manual trans, but I'm biased...

 

Not true...My 04 4X4 QC had the ball joint issue. I bought it in Sep of 2012 with 110K for $6500 and have done the following myself except for an alignment after a torsion bar lift/leveling:
No particular order...
Replaced fog light and rear brake/cargo bulbs.
Painted undercoating under rockers.
Installed new PCV valve.
Removed aftermarket auto start and installed a new one.
Tinted the windows.
Removed lower front bumper paint and repainted.
New brakes on all 4 corners.
New front upper ball joints.
New front sway bar bushings.
New front shocks.
Replaced air filter.
New plugs.
Changed the oil & filter.
Removed and cleaned the throttle body intake.
Fixed CC by repairing a hole in the servo.
Replaced front main oil seal (crankshaft).
New water pump.
Removed the mechanical fan.