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Potential Dakota Purchase - is it lifted? plus other q's

Old Mar 4, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by curiousgeorge
My dad always says to never buy the first one you see, but the body on this is in great condition,
Speaking of the body, make sure you check the doors for cracking around the hinges. I've personally repaired this problem on at least six Dakotas and seen several more. The ones I see are mostly work trucks, so that probably makes a difference, but you should still check.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by curiousgeorge
I may also check out a few F150's... not sure if I should be saying that here...
Have fun catching the spark plugs when they blow out of the engine
 

Last edited by 00DakDan; Jul 23, 2013 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 00DakDan
Have fun catching the spark plugs when they blow out of the engine
I've heard of that issue but ive never saw or know anyone that has had it happen. My dad had a 97 and that 02. My buddy had a 99 expedition, my uncle has a 02 and my other uncle has a 96. My buddys dad works for a company and all they drive is fords(prob 10-15 just at his site). Some with 200k+ on them.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgeramguy85
I've heard of that issue but ive never saw or know anyone that has had it happen. My dad had a 97 and that 02. My buddy had a 99 expedition, my uncle has a 02 and my other uncle has a 96. My buddys dad works for a company and all they drive is fords(prob 10-15 just at his site). Some with 200k+ on them.
I seen one at work that had the plug blow out. There were zero threads left in the head, like you'd stuck a drill bit thru it
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:33 PM
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I've only seen one before, which I fixed. I also used to own a 99 motorhome with a V-10 and never had a problem with it. I think all the ones after 2000 are OK.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:53 PM
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Ya them Ford's occasionally blow the plug right out or lock it in forever, depending on year.

I discussed the truck tonight with my dad and I'm fairly confident I'm going to make an offer. I think I'll wait a day or two. Anyways, I'm just writing up a potential parts list (potential because I don't know for sure if needed) and ball joints are on it.

I see there is both an upper and lower ball joint, but some are press-in and some are bolt-in. Is one better than the other? (Looking on RockAuto). I read the sticky above about the upper ball joint (remove rivets, bolt-in new bj).

I did the ball joints (and tie rods) on my Mustang last summer, they are press in (and only have lower ball joints). I borrowed a ball joint press tool and it was easy.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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Here's an update. I ended up buying this particular Dak. 2000 SLT Quadcab 4WD, automatic. I really would've preferred to find a stick shift in this same configuration, but there are absolutely none. Nonetheless, I am confident it'll do fine (just not as fun! :P).

It is in need of a brake job in the back at a minimum, potentially the parking brake overhauled as well. I'll only know the extent of the job when I pop the drum off in a few days. Also seems the brake lights are not working, which I did not notice until after I bought it! Will be looking at the fuses and brake light switch. Might pick up a Haynes manual as well, at least that way I have access to the wiring diagrams.

I also noticed when I open the doors or use the dimmer switch, the interior lights are not functional. I see there are 2 lights up front and one dome light in the back - none turn on unless manually switched. Any ideas for this?

The last thing I will need to look at is the tail gate. It doesn't like to latch unless I manually push a pin on the side. Maybe just needs to be greased. Thoughts? Can take a picture if need be, I don't really know the technical term for the piece I'm attempting to explain.

Other then that, she just needs a good wash and detail.

Already had a scary experience with it though. During the drive home the left indicator was flashing rapidly, which usually signifies one is burnt out. When I got home, I turned off the engine but left the key on and accessories running so I could check the left indicator. I turn on the indicator, step out of the interior and close the door. I checked both front and back and both were working, but flickering pretty quickly. I go back to grab my keys and the door is locked. The kicker... it only came with one key and remote, both of which were in the car. After a few choice swear words followed by some quick thinking, I got the door unlocked easy enough (perhaps too easy) and all was well. But let me tell you, my stomach dropped when I pulled the handle and the door didn't open!
 

Last edited by curiousgeorge; Mar 11, 2013 at 10:05 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by curiousgeorge
Here's an update. I ended up buying this particular Dak. 2000 SLT Quadcab 4WD, automatic. I really would've preferred to find a stick shift in this same configuration, but there are absolutely none. Nonetheless, I am confident it'll do fine (just not as fun! :P).

It is in need of a brake job in the back at a minimum, potentially the parking brake overhauled as well. I'll only know the extent of the job when I pop the drum off in a few days. Also seems the brake lights are not working, which I did not notice until after I bought it! Will be looking at the fuses and brake light switch. Might pick up a Haynes manual as well, at least that way I have access to the wiring diagrams.

I also noticed when I open the doors or use the dimmer switch, the interior lights are not functional. I see there are 2 lights up front and one dome light in the back - none turn on unless manually switched. Any ideas for this?

The last thing I will need to look at is the tail gate. It doesn't like to latch unless I manually push a pin on the side. Maybe just needs to be greased. Thoughts? Can take a picture if need be, I don't really know the technical term for the piece I'm attempting to explain.

Other then that, she just needs a good wash and detail.

Already had a scary experience with it though. During the drive home the left indicator was flashing rapidly, which usually signifies one is burnt out. When I got home, I turned off the engine but left the key on and accessories running so I could check the left indicator. I turn on the indicator, step out of the interior and close the door. I checked both front and back and both were working, but flickering pretty quickly. I go back to grab my keys and the door is locked. The kicker... it only came with one key and remote, both of which were in the car. After a few choice swear words followed by some quick thinking, I got the door unlocked easy enough (perhaps too easy) and all was well. But let me tell you, my stomach dropped when I pulled the handle and the door didn't open!
Well, this escaladed quickly.

My first observation: The door locks, keyless entry, headlights, and interior lights are all controlled by the Central Timer Module. It's behind the driver side kick panel, next to the parking brake. It does NOT control the brake lights, and I don't know wether or not it works the turn signals.

On the tailgate, it may need to be lubed or it may have a broken return spring. Hard to say without opening it up.

download the FSM manual, there is a sticky thread on it. 3,000 pages of everything you didnt think you needed to know about your truck.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 11:41 PM
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Ok I'll take a gander at the CTM. Thanks for the tip.
I just fixed the brake lights, the problem was a blown fuse and bulb.

Will also check out that manual.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 01:00 AM
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Well that's good, nice and easy. Do the headlights (both low and high beam) work correctly?

Did you check any interior light fuses, and/or make sure the dash changes brightness via the scroll wheel, and if the interior lights come on with it, and/or the cargo lamp in the bed/3rd brake light?
 
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