Hi all,

I'm in the market for a small(er) truck that comes with 4x4, 4 real doors and can tow 5000 lbs. Early 2000 Dakota's fit the bill (2000-04) quite nicely and seem to be readily available.

I went and looked at a 2000 Dakota SLT quad cab today, 4.7 V8, 4x4 (3.55 gears) and with the automatic transmission - 110 000 mi on it(178 000 km). The body and frame were in very good shape and the engine seemed to run fine. However, I have a few questions about the transmission and 4x4 systems.

I have heard that Dodge automatics aren't the greatest, but have not come across a clear explanation of why, what fails etc. I checked the fluid (via dipstick) on this truck and it was nice and red and did not smell burnt. However, when shifting in between gears (P, R & D), there was occasionally a loud clunk.

Now, onto the 4x4 system. How exactly does it work? This one is a manually actuated system, with a lever coming through the floor. Options are 4-lo locked, N, 4WD, 4-hi locked. What exactly does the plain 4WD option mean? I tested all the modes and they seemed to work fine. However, when in 4-hi locked, starting a right hand turn from a stop, there was a bid of shuddering going on from the back. Any thoughts onto what this means? Finally, how does this manually actuated system compare to the 01-04 models, with the electric switch system?

I also noticed a lot of free play in the brake pedal. It took a lot of travel before any stopping power was noticed - the pedal was VERY soft. Is this characteristic of Dakotas? This one has discs in the front and drums in the back. Not a big deal, brake jobs are relatively easy, just curious to know if Dak's are known for soft pedals.

Finally, here is a picture of the truck. Does it look like it has been lifted? It does to me. The tires look extremely small. Silly me, I forgot to actually check what size those tires were!

 

Hi and welcome to the forums.

1. It does appear to be lifted.

2. There really isn't anything in particular wrong with the automatics. Common problems are electrical or governor pressure solenoids. For the most part, people just don't maintain them. The "clunk" could be a u-joint or some play in the pinion.

3. You have a part time 4wd setup in that truck (full time was an option). It's not intended to be operated on dry pavement, only in slippery conditions. When in 4wd the front/rear transfer case outputs are locked together, that's why the shudder, there is no viscous coupling to allow any slip. It's a very simple system and a lot less prone to failures than the '01 and up with the dash **** although it is basically the same transfer case with a different shift mechanism.

Note: all the components are rotating any time the truck is moving. In 2wd it disconnects power to the front drive shaft but everything still rotates.

4. Odds are the rear brakes aren't doing anything. They may be big time out of adjustment or it's got air in the lines.

Just remember, it's a 12 year old truck with 110,000 miles on it.

 

Thanks for the response, especially the 4x4. That was my main concern.

Concerning the lift, would it affect towing ability? I know incorrectly done lifts will change the driveline angles and induce more wear. Whether this particular lift was done properly or not I don't know, the seller is not aware of the lift. Any advice here? My preference would be to return it to stock.

I have seen towing capacities for these trucks rated anywhere from 4800-6100. Looking on the dodge site, a 2002 slt quad cab 4x4 with 3.55's is good for 4800 lbs. I presume a 2000 dak would be no different. I also presume installing a tranny cooler would be a good idea.

Anyways, for an 13 yr old vehicle, overall I thought it was in good shape. It will need new tires and a rear brake job (ABS light and parking brake light were on, furthermore parking brake was non-functional), but otherwise looked good.

I really wanted a 4.7/stick/3.92 combo, but this one was pretty nice.

 

I'm not sure if it's lifted or it's the tires now. What tires are on it?

Looking at my truck, the lower edge of the body is about even with the round outside center portion of the rims, almost like yours is. I know mine isn't lifted. The tires just look really small.

I have 31x10.50 R15's.

My chart shows "up to 9200 pounds GCWR when properly equipped" and trailer weight up to 6100 pounds.

I think you've found your brake problem. It's pretty common, bad rear brakes.

That's what I have. It is NICE!

 

IMO I think it has a 2" body lift on it.

brake pedal: One end or the other are probably worn, inoperable, or both (work front + seized/leaking back). Since parking brake didn't work, could be really worn shoes in back and/or bad, bad adjustment.

The ABS light being on is slightly concerning, but could be something simple like a blown fuse or disconnected harness.

 

Wouldn't the absence of a 2WD position indicate that it's a full-time system?

 

Tom, you are correct. I'm seeing things, I thought it said 2wd.

Curious, you do have full time four wheel drive. When you put it in "lock" it locks the center differential in the transfer case, that the binding you felt. You should leave it in 4wd at all times under "normal" conditions. Use lock in "slippery" conditions.

 

I'd say there's no lift on that truck...Look how low the nerf bars are to the ground. Dinky looking tires for sure.

My truck the day I bought it...Stock height.

 

It looks to me like the torsion bars have been cranked, but nothing else. It looks lower in the back and they're usually slightly higher in back.

And if I just had to make a wild guess, I'd say it probably had bigger wheels and tires on it, but the seller decided to either keep them or sell them separately.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies, all of your insight has been great!

The old man came with me when we looked at the truck, and good ole dad was smart enough to check the tires. He (dad) said they were stock size.

Tom A, you are correct, there were larger summer/mud tires in the bed of truck. Didn't look at the size of them, but they are certainly bigger (and worn out!). I will look into the torsion bar thing you mentioned, thanks for the tip. If that is indeed the case, I would want to revert it back to stock if not a lot of money is involved.

As for the brakes, I am fairly certain the back brakes are seized/inoperable. Drum brakes never really give a great pedal feel, but it shouldn't be that soft.

One other thing I wanted to ask... the driver seat rocks back and forth. The frame itself is securely bolted to the floor and is not loose. I guess the cushions have loosened on the seat frame itself. I suppose only a new seat would fix this? Not that this is a deal breaker, just a minor annoyance, although not to be unexpected at 13yrs old.

EDIT: Looked up the torsion bar lift, seems pretty easy to fix that.