Just for reference, a 4x4 (which starts out taller than your 4x2) needs a 5.5" lift to run 33s. So you would need roughly 6-7" of lift to fit 33s properly (so you can still turn). Add about an inch to that for 34s (which don't really exist, AFAIK).

Assuming you're going to use a 3" body lift, you still need to come up with around 4" of suspension lift. Considering that 4" suspension lifts are not commercially manufactured (again, AFAIK), you would have to custom fabricate brackets to drop your whole front suspension down 4". Not impossible, but a lot of work. And then you still have the problem of the steering to deal with. Unless you can drop the rack and pinion 4" to match everything else (LOTS of fabrication), you'll still need to install a steering box, just like you would with the SAS.

Just curious, why are you opposed to the SAS? Ride quality? Difficulty? Expense? I think you'd find that it rides pretty nice (especially with coils), is less work than doing a custom 2WD lift, and costs about the same.

 

I'm sure just for 33's all you need is the body lift, no?

I've heard that only at full lock will they rub.

But why put 35's on a Dakota that you want to keep 2WD? Might as well get a 4x4 front axle.

 

78 to 79... I've got a 79 F150 Short bed 4x4 that's got the axle you're speaking of. It's a Dana 44 High Pinion, and it's coil sprung. This is the Dana 44 people are usually looking for, and if looking for a Dana 60 the most desirable years are 78 to 79 too IIRC. I'd put the 44 in my Dakota if I weren't putting a diesel motor in the F150 lol

 

Depends what you want to do with it. Even with the Tuff Country 5.5" lift, my 33s still rubbed the fenders a little if the suspension compressed while turning. My wheels do have slightly less backspacing than stock, though, so that may be a contributing factor. If you're only driving on the street, you can probably get away with 33s on stock wheels, but it won't be ideal.

Thanks for adding that. I couldn't remember, and I was too lazy to do the research.

 

I had 33's(305/70/16) on mine with a 3" body lift with very minimal rubbing, none after a little inner fender trimming. I'm running 35's now with re-indexed torsion keys and add-a-leafs in the back...they rub like a s.o.b, can't turn the whole way, but I got them for 40$ a tire mounted and balanced and they've got me through for two years and I will be going back down to 33s soon. My question is....why do you want 35's on a 2wd truck?(kinda like lowering a 4x4 IMO)

 

I forgot about this thread. I don't want 4wd because I won't be going off road much. I figure I can get 8 inches of lift by using the Doestsch 3 inch lift and putting ball joint spacers in along with 2" coil spacers and a 3 inch body lift. I think this will clear 35s but I could be wrong.

 

If you're not going off-road, why are you so set on running 35s?

What you're describing putting together sounds like a death trap, IMO.

 

I want big tires. I don't know how safe ball joint spacers are either.

 

Second the death trap opinion. For the love of safety and drivability try 3" body lift and coil spacers that should clear 33's(4x4s will clear with minimal rubbing on just a body lift). Our trucks look pretty sweet on 33's IMO

 

The ball joint spacers can cause extra leverage on the upper control arm and weaken the mounting area. I have seen it happen on Nissan trucks. With a V6 and stock gearing, your truck will be slow as molasses in the winter time and it's going to ride like garbage not to mention alignment issues. I say stick with 33s man and just call it a day until you decide to do an SAS.