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Tapered (NOT) lift blocks

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Old 04-18-2013 | 06:03 AM
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alaskajeff
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Default Tapered (NOT) lift blocks

So I wanted to level out my 97 Dakota and decided to order a set of 2" TAPERED lift blocks with new u-bolts off ebay...........And this is what I got
Anyone see a problem here? They are sending me another set, so I will withold the seller's ID until they arrive. Who knows, could have been a fluke.
101_3940_zpsaba48ba5.jpg
 
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Old 04-18-2013 | 10:38 AM
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DakCC4x4
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So why the "tapered" lift blocks? The spring pad is flat and I doubt you are putting down that kind of horsepower to need tapered blocks(a redneck substitution for ladder bars and only a temporary substitution)
 
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Old 04-18-2013 | 05:57 PM
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alaskajeff
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Originally Posted by DakCC4x4
So why the "tapered" lift blocks? The spring pad is flat and I doubt you are putting down that kind of horsepower to need tapered blocks(a redneck substitution for ladder bars and only a temporary substitution)
The taper on the blocks is to keep the driveline angle as close to OEM as possible. It will tilt the axle housing just enough to do that. It's got nothing to do with horsepower and axle wrap.
 
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Old 04-18-2013 | 11:59 PM
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Sorry if I'm not understanding you, but won't tapered blocks completely screw up your pinion angle? If you tilt the pinion up, you're going to end up with pretty much zero u-joint angle at the rear end and a little more than the stock angle at the transfer case, which is a recipe for vibration. If you want the driveshaft to operate vibration-free, the joint angles need to be equal. The setup you're talking about is what you would want for a CV driveshaft.

FWIW, I'm running tapered blocks backwards (pinion rotated down) to maintain equal u-joint angles after I did a shackle flip in the rear.
 

Last edited by Tom A; 04-19-2013 at 12:03 AM.




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