Video tutorial on how to replace the front wheel bearing on a 2 wheel drive 1997 to 2004 Dodge Dakota with a 4.7L V8. When ordering a new wheel bearing, you will also have to order a new locking nut because this particular model uses nylon locking nut which cannot be reused. Other styles use a castellated nut which has a cotter pin to lock it into place rather than using a nylon insert built within the nut.

Procedure:
-jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel
-make sure you have the vehicle securely raised using an axle stand
-loosen the master cylinder reservoir so when you depress the pistons in the caliper, it doesn't build up an access pressure in the system
-remove the 2 14mm bolts from the caliper, then depress the pistons while the caliper is in place using a large pair of slip joint pliers or a c-clamp
-once you've removed the caliper, tie it into place so there isn't any strain on the brake line
-next remove the caliper carrier which is held on by 2 21mm bolts on the backside
-once the carrier is removed, remove the rotor next. If the rotor is stuck on, you can hit the rotor with a hammer in between the lugs to rattle it loose
-now you can remove the hub using a 1-3/8" socket
-if the hub is slightly stuck on, you can tap the rear with a hammer considering you'll be replacing the bearing and it doesn't matter about the old bearings. You can also use a puller if you chose to
-clean the spindle shaft of any rust or grim in order for the new one to fit. This is a sliding fit setup
-once the hub is in place, you can now install the new locking nylon locking nut (torque spec is 185ft lbs or 251nm)
-caliper slide pin torque specs are 22 ft lbs or 30nm

 

I will move this to the 2nd generation Dakota sub-forum.

 

Not the greatest Vid they miss two of the most important steps how to break the axel nut lose the first thing you should do with the tire on still and how to torque the nut down correctly... Very important.

The brakes in the vid are only on the 2002 to 2004 model years very different I could be off one year on that.

But not bad just missing some important steps

 

Yeah the axle nut torque is a biggy but overall good vid.

I had no issues pulling my calipers off so I'm not sure what you're talking about loosening the master and needing a c clamp.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98DAKAZ

Not the greatest Vid they miss two of the most important steps how to break the axel nut lose the first thing you should do with the tire on still and how to torque the nut down correctly... Very important.

The brakes in the vid are only on the 2002 to 2004 model years very different I could be off one year on that.

But not bad just missing some important steps

Well considering the shaft on the spindle is stationary, there is no need to have the wheel on the vehicle to remove the nut. This is a 2wd truck, not 4wd so you don't have to worry about the axle spinning. Also I did have a jack and axle stand, so if there was too much movement while applying pressure to the Johnson bar, the truck won't roll away. I did mention the torque specs for the nut... I was kind of giving people the benefit of the doubt and hoping they know how to use a torque wrench.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sxrsil3nt

Yeah the axle nut torque is a biggy but overall good vid.

I had no issues pulling my calipers off so I'm not sure what you're talking about loosening the master and needing a c clamp.

2wd, not a 4wd, so I didn't have to worry about an axle spinning Oh the pads on this truck had tabs on the anti rattle clips. Not sure if all manfacturers for these pads have that option or it was just on this make. And, moving the pistons back in the caliper also help with installation too. Once you remove the carrier which holds the pads in place, sometimes there is a lip on the rotor so the pads need to be pushed back slightly. So this just makes it easier for installation.

 

That's not the point the point is its easier to crack the nut lose... on jack stands you have the possibility of the truck falling off the stands has nothing to do with the axel spinning its just safer and easier no need to worry about any possibility of any problem.

What do you think we are???

By the way they are called Hubs

The only reason to push the piston in is if you are replacing your pads if it came off it should go back on they should slide off easily and back on the same some depression of the piston may be needed but not a C clamp

And yes its not a 4X4

 

Yeah I literally just did mine last friday and I cracked both nuts with both wheels on the ground, easier and safer too.

I just removed those little clips on the calipers but your pads shouldn't be stuck if you're trying to pull off the caliper, that may be a sign of it sticking. I would only use a C clamp to push the piston back if I was replacing the pads like Dakaz mentioned.

Thanks for the video!