Blower motor resistor connector issues
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Blower motor resistor connector issues
Hey everyone I have a 2001 dodge Dakota 4.7L 2wd. my blower motor quit working and it has done this before a couple of years ago and they replaced the resistor for it so I thought I would do the same. I take out the old resistor and the connector is melted. the black connector coming off the harness looks like it isn't going to work anymore. any thoughts on maybe getting a new connector or something else? thanks for any help
Section Moderator
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,858
Likes: 47
From: MA
Hi Ctad,
Welcome to the forum.
It's actually a common problem. Sometimes the old connector is a little loose, it increases the resistance, and melts the connector. Replace both parts.
You might consider checking the current draw on the blower motor. There are no real specs but from what others have said on the forum it can be between 17-18 amps on high.
Welcome to the forum.
It's actually a common problem. Sometimes the old connector is a little loose, it increases the resistance, and melts the connector. Replace both parts.
You might consider checking the current draw on the blower motor. There are no real specs but from what others have said on the forum it can be between 17-18 amps on high.
Champion
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,895
Likes: 35
From: Gilbert, Arizona
You may get lucky
I had a different melted connector and was lucky to have a spare connector that worked out great and no cutting and splicing needed.
I don't know if your connector is similar but what I did was carefully cut out/off the melted connector without damaging the wire ends/connecters and used the good connector as a replacement worked great.
As long as the wires are still good and the connectors are still good and the connector is made in a way you can remove the wires you are good.
Check out my thread on my melted wire connector fix.
I hope this makes sense to you??
Link on this forum LINK
Good luck
I had a different melted connector and was lucky to have a spare connector that worked out great and no cutting and splicing needed.
I don't know if your connector is similar but what I did was carefully cut out/off the melted connector without damaging the wire ends/connecters and used the good connector as a replacement worked great.
As long as the wires are still good and the connectors are still good and the connector is made in a way you can remove the wires you are good.
Check out my thread on my melted wire connector fix.
I hope this makes sense to you??
Link on this forum LINK
Good luck
Champion
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,895
Likes: 35
From: Gilbert, Arizona
Watch this Vid it may help to explain some of what I am talking about
Most automotive connectors are made so you can pop out the wires so you can then insert the wire into a new connector as long as the wire and its connector end is in good shape then you can reuse it and not cut and splice in the complete new connector harness.
But the clamped on wire end must be clean or cleaned up and not deformed in any way so you get a good clean connection or you will have the same problem a melted connector.
Also the new connector plug you get must have the exact same style of connections.
Some pop off easy like a removable bar some you insert a tube or wire like the hair pin in the vid to depress the locking tang down so it can then be extracted.
Most automotive connectors are made so you can pop out the wires so you can then insert the wire into a new connector as long as the wire and its connector end is in good shape then you can reuse it and not cut and splice in the complete new connector harness.
But the clamped on wire end must be clean or cleaned up and not deformed in any way so you get a good clean connection or you will have the same problem a melted connector.
Also the new connector plug you get must have the exact same style of connections.
Some pop off easy like a removable bar some you insert a tube or wire like the hair pin in the vid to depress the locking tang down so it can then be extracted.
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Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 20
From: Clermont, Florida
If the fan is drawing enough current to smoke the wire connector at the resistor pack, it would be a good idea to measure the current draw of the blower motor after the resistor is replaced and the wire connector is repaired or replaced. If the blower motor draws more than about 17 or 18 amps when on high speed it should be replaced. Otherwise, you may have this same problem all over again in the not-so-distant future. I am not saying the aftermarket wire connector plugs are a bad idea but it might also be worth a trip to a you-pull-it yard and see if you can cut an OEM blower motor resistor connector out of a wrecked Dakota, Ram or Durango. If you can find the right connector plug it will be cheap or maybe even free. It would be less trouble than putting together the aftermarket connector.
All you need to check the current draw is a decent clamp style ammeter, Sears sells a good one for about $36.00, or they have a better one for $53.00. Harbor Freight sells a cheap one too. It only costs $11.99 but I personally have very little faith in electronic diagnostic tools from HF. Whichever meter you choose, just unsnap and unplug the wire connector on the right side of the blower motor. Un-twist the green and black wires from each other and clamp the meter around the green wire to check the current draw. Check it with the engine running and fan on high speed.
I was lucky enough not smoke the connector plug on my resistor pack but I did go through two resistor packs in my own truck over the course of a few years before I realized I needed to replace the blower motor itself to cure the problem with the resistor pack. I got my new blower motor at Advance Auto Parts, used an online discount code and saved $40.00 on it. That was probably two years ago, and I have had no blower fan problems at all since then. Aftermarket blower fans are a bit louder than OE but in my case anyway the motor I installed will blow my hair back on the third and fourth speeds. My original fan motor did not move half as much air as the aftermarket one.
Jimmy
All you need to check the current draw is a decent clamp style ammeter, Sears sells a good one for about $36.00, or they have a better one for $53.00. Harbor Freight sells a cheap one too. It only costs $11.99 but I personally have very little faith in electronic diagnostic tools from HF. Whichever meter you choose, just unsnap and unplug the wire connector on the right side of the blower motor. Un-twist the green and black wires from each other and clamp the meter around the green wire to check the current draw. Check it with the engine running and fan on high speed.
I was lucky enough not smoke the connector plug on my resistor pack but I did go through two resistor packs in my own truck over the course of a few years before I realized I needed to replace the blower motor itself to cure the problem with the resistor pack. I got my new blower motor at Advance Auto Parts, used an online discount code and saved $40.00 on it. That was probably two years ago, and I have had no blower fan problems at all since then. Aftermarket blower fans are a bit louder than OE but in my case anyway the motor I installed will blow my hair back on the third and fourth speeds. My original fan motor did not move half as much air as the aftermarket one.
Jimmy
Champion
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,895
Likes: 35
From: Gilbert, Arizona
That's funny same here high speed all the time in Hot Arizona
That's great to know the aftermarket ones blow more air I like that. I plugged up my passenger side air outlet so I get more air to me the driver I just cut a piece of car sponge and stuffed it down the passenger side air outlet the vent pops off easy.
Cheap way to fix a problem as I do agree the stock fan is kind of weak in air flow.
That's great to know the aftermarket ones blow more air I like that. I plugged up my passenger side air outlet so I get more air to me the driver I just cut a piece of car sponge and stuffed it down the passenger side air outlet the vent pops off easy.
Cheap way to fix a problem as I do agree the stock fan is kind of weak in air flow.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; May 31, 2013 at 01:40 AM.
