Stalls when turning left
Removed throttle body and cleaned every speck of black out with an old toothbrush and throttle body cleaner. Top, bottom, inside, and out.
Put fuel pressure guage on it today, taped to the windshield so I could see what is happening. Pressure stayed right at 48psi. I drove it until it stalled and the pressure stayed up there even then.
I did notice that when I removed the fuel pump relay to relieve the pressure from the rail so that I could connect the guage, the truck continued to idle(roughly). I checked it later with the guage attached and it still had around 5-10psi without the fuel pump relay.
I wiggled every wire the I could find and tapped on each relay and connector in the engine and around the fuel pump and did not notice any difference in how the motor was running.
I did not raise the front end, but i did turn the steering wheel from end to end while watching from both top and bottom. I did not notice any rubbing of wires from either the column or the steering linkage.
I am a little stumped as to why the car will start back up after a few minutes but not immediately. If it is not having to rebuild fuel pressure, could something be overheating in the electrical system like the coil or distributer? Could the torque converter be locking up and bogging down the motor only on left turns?
I appreciate everyone's input. If i have missed anything, please point it out.
Put fuel pressure guage on it today, taped to the windshield so I could see what is happening. Pressure stayed right at 48psi. I drove it until it stalled and the pressure stayed up there even then.
I did notice that when I removed the fuel pump relay to relieve the pressure from the rail so that I could connect the guage, the truck continued to idle(roughly). I checked it later with the guage attached and it still had around 5-10psi without the fuel pump relay.
I wiggled every wire the I could find and tapped on each relay and connector in the engine and around the fuel pump and did not notice any difference in how the motor was running.
I did not raise the front end, but i did turn the steering wheel from end to end while watching from both top and bottom. I did not notice any rubbing of wires from either the column or the steering linkage.
I am a little stumped as to why the car will start back up after a few minutes but not immediately. If it is not having to rebuild fuel pressure, could something be overheating in the electrical system like the coil or distributer? Could the torque converter be locking up and bogging down the motor only on left turns?
I appreciate everyone's input. If i have missed anything, please point it out.
Removed throttle body and cleaned every speck of black out with an old toothbrush and throttle body cleaner. Top, bottom, inside, and out.
Put fuel pressure guage on it today, taped to the windshield so I could see what is happening. Pressure stayed right at 48psi. I drove it until it stalled and the pressure stayed up there even then.
I did notice that when I removed the fuel pump relay to relieve the pressure from the rail so that I could connect the guage, the truck continued to idle(roughly). I checked it later with the guage attached and it still had around 5-10psi without the fuel pump relay.
I wiggled every wire the I could find and tapped on each relay and connector in the engine and around the fuel pump and did not notice any difference in how the motor was running.
I did not raise the front end, but i did turn the steering wheel from end to end while watching from both top and bottom. I did not notice any rubbing of wires from either the column or the steering linkage.
I am a little stumped as to why the car will start back up after a few minutes but not immediately. If it is not having to rebuild fuel pressure, could something be overheating in the electrical system like the coil or distributer? Could the torque converter be locking up and bogging down the motor only on left turns?
I appreciate everyone's input. If i have missed anything, please point it out.
Put fuel pressure guage on it today, taped to the windshield so I could see what is happening. Pressure stayed right at 48psi. I drove it until it stalled and the pressure stayed up there even then.
I did notice that when I removed the fuel pump relay to relieve the pressure from the rail so that I could connect the guage, the truck continued to idle(roughly). I checked it later with the guage attached and it still had around 5-10psi without the fuel pump relay.
I wiggled every wire the I could find and tapped on each relay and connector in the engine and around the fuel pump and did not notice any difference in how the motor was running.
I did not raise the front end, but i did turn the steering wheel from end to end while watching from both top and bottom. I did not notice any rubbing of wires from either the column or the steering linkage.
I am a little stumped as to why the car will start back up after a few minutes but not immediately. If it is not having to rebuild fuel pressure, could something be overheating in the electrical system like the coil or distributer? Could the torque converter be locking up and bogging down the motor only on left turns?
I appreciate everyone's input. If i have missed anything, please point it out.
I'm not sure on the fuel thing- I would think the injectors would prevent siphoning out of the tank...I never purge the rail when I pressure test, I just put a rag under the port and unscrew the fitting. It's a schrader valve so it's not like it will leak excessively.
Last edited by magnethead; Jun 16, 2013 at 11:01 PM.
It did not stall while still in the driveway when I turned it from lock to lock.
I relieved the pressure because it was my first time to use a pressure gauge and I was following the instructions. It seemed weird that I could start it without the fuel pump relay being in.
I relieved the pressure because it was my first time to use a pressure gauge and I was following the instructions. It seemed weird that I could start it without the fuel pump relay being in.
I just went out and did the key thing to read error codes. It gave me a P1282. I believe that this has to do with the fuel pump relay. Would removing it to relieve the pressure off the rails have tripped this code?
How do I reset my codes?
Thanks
How do I reset my codes?
Thanks
did anyone tamper with the throttle body idle set screw? Never change that set screw. Are you sure you have the correct IAC there are many different models that will fit into the throttle body but not work properly you must have the exact model for your engine and year
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Jun 17, 2013 at 03:51 PM.
The set screw cannot be changed. There is a pressed in cover that prevents tempering...unless, y'know, somebody tries to drill it out.
Ok I just checked its only on the 2.5 that they changed the IAC at the 2000 or 2001 year and you can change the set screw on all 2.5 and even the jeep 4.0 throttle bodies we swap into the 2.5 engine figured all the throttle bodies were the same with a set screw.
As I played with it and regretted it took me a bit of experimenting to get it smooth again back when I swapped in the 4.0 throttle body two years ago.
correction
As I played with it and regretted it took me a bit of experimenting to get it smooth again back when I swapped in the 4.0 throttle body two years ago.
correction
Magnethead, I'm glad that you told me the set screw was covered because I was starting to feel bad that I didn't even see it...
I got the IAC from Advance Auto and their website told me that it was an exact fit for our Dakota.
I still can't figure out why it needs to sit for a few minutes before it will start again after stalling. It seems like if it were a loose ground or a short, it would sometimes start immediately and sometimes not start. But, for it to need to sit for a few minutes, something has to change during that time. Something is either too hot, too high pressure, too low pressure, etc....
Any thoughts on the Auto Shut Down relay?
I got the IAC from Advance Auto and their website told me that it was an exact fit for our Dakota.
I still can't figure out why it needs to sit for a few minutes before it will start again after stalling. It seems like if it were a loose ground or a short, it would sometimes start immediately and sometimes not start. But, for it to need to sit for a few minutes, something has to change during that time. Something is either too hot, too high pressure, too low pressure, etc....
Any thoughts on the Auto Shut Down relay?










