99 Dakota crate engine(?)
#1
99 Dakota crate engine(?)
Hey all,
Had been considering purchasing a new vehicle since I am in need of a valve job and had some concern that more issues may be around the corner, but have opted to keep my truck and rebuild it, and save the money from NOT buying a new vehicle.
'99 Dodge Dakota Sport V6 3.9, 5 spd. with 180k mi., sole owner.
I love it, just a couple water pumps, thermostat, cat converter or two, and the regular tune-ups over the years.
Now, 2 weak valves.
Do I just go with a valve job for $1200, rebuild, or do I go ahead and put in a crate?
Beyond that, from your experiences what are some small upgrades to consider as well?
Looking to spend no more than $6,500.
Had been considering purchasing a new vehicle since I am in need of a valve job and had some concern that more issues may be around the corner, but have opted to keep my truck and rebuild it, and save the money from NOT buying a new vehicle.
'99 Dodge Dakota Sport V6 3.9, 5 spd. with 180k mi., sole owner.
I love it, just a couple water pumps, thermostat, cat converter or two, and the regular tune-ups over the years.
Now, 2 weak valves.
Do I just go with a valve job for $1200, rebuild, or do I go ahead and put in a crate?
Beyond that, from your experiences what are some small upgrades to consider as well?
Looking to spend no more than $6,500.
Last edited by Hanneman; 07-24-2013 at 06:16 PM.
#2
Do you do your own work, can you remove the heads yourself and take them in for a valve job ($1200 seems kinda steep.) If you can do a the top end tear down and reassembly, you can install a crate or reman'd engine yourself. Labor is sooo! expensive.
Why do you think you need a valve job? Visible blue smoke at start up? Have you had a leak down test done? How's your oil consumption, oil pressure, performance?
You can do a head swap, probably. Find a place that has the rebuilt heads in stock, take your old ones in and just swap them. If you want to go further, you can get a re-manufactured engine engine from Jasper or ATK--just as good or better and a lot cheaper than a crate (new, old stock) engine. You don't say where you live, but bigger cities often have businesses that have engines in stock that you can buy exchange--you remove all the stuff off the long block and just take it in and they'll sell you a nice rebuilt engine. Probably under $2000. I'd probably spring for a radiator and have the trannie cleaned and change the oil. And you should definitely spring for a new clutch & have the flywheel surfaced.
We can't tell you what to do. We don't know what condition your truck is in, what you want to end up with, or how bad your current engine is. You've got a pretty good budget--especially if you can do the work yourself or find someone who's moderately priced for labor.
Why do you think you need a valve job? Visible blue smoke at start up? Have you had a leak down test done? How's your oil consumption, oil pressure, performance?
You can do a head swap, probably. Find a place that has the rebuilt heads in stock, take your old ones in and just swap them. If you want to go further, you can get a re-manufactured engine engine from Jasper or ATK--just as good or better and a lot cheaper than a crate (new, old stock) engine. You don't say where you live, but bigger cities often have businesses that have engines in stock that you can buy exchange--you remove all the stuff off the long block and just take it in and they'll sell you a nice rebuilt engine. Probably under $2000. I'd probably spring for a radiator and have the trannie cleaned and change the oil. And you should definitely spring for a new clutch & have the flywheel surfaced.
We can't tell you what to do. We don't know what condition your truck is in, what you want to end up with, or how bad your current engine is. You've got a pretty good budget--especially if you can do the work yourself or find someone who's moderately priced for labor.
#3
Thanks Brian, great reply.
Yes, I had the leak-down test. One valve is running at 45% and another at 65%...had it checked due to emissions failure. Performance is definitely lacking.
$1200 is a bit steep, and although I could do it, my days of wrenching are behind me. Time and space limit me more than anything. But if removing the top end is that easy, perhaps I should. My skills' ceiling was building my 350 small block 20 years ago.
So although the labor does sting, I may have to make that investment.
I would like a little more pep in it. Never did chip it or put in a better exhaust, two more things I'm considering.
It's in otherwise great condition, and looking to have it last me another 100k+. Doing the radiator at the same item is a good call. The trani has been serviced recently and may as well put in the clutch as you suggest to get just it done since it may be nearing it's end.
Thanks again, I appreciate the input.
Yes, I had the leak-down test. One valve is running at 45% and another at 65%...had it checked due to emissions failure. Performance is definitely lacking.
$1200 is a bit steep, and although I could do it, my days of wrenching are behind me. Time and space limit me more than anything. But if removing the top end is that easy, perhaps I should. My skills' ceiling was building my 350 small block 20 years ago.
So although the labor does sting, I may have to make that investment.
I would like a little more pep in it. Never did chip it or put in a better exhaust, two more things I'm considering.
It's in otherwise great condition, and looking to have it last me another 100k+. Doing the radiator at the same item is a good call. The trani has been serviced recently and may as well put in the clutch as you suggest to get just it done since it may be nearing it's end.
Thanks again, I appreciate the input.
Last edited by Hanneman; 06-30-2013 at 02:28 PM.
#5
I wouldn't. He's going to have to pay to have the work done and the fiddling to get a 5.2 in would probably bankrupt him. Keep it simple. . .
Back to the OP. You say you'd like to get another 100K out of the truck. You could just go with the heads and you might get those miles. My 96--auto, 5.2, has 230,000 on it and runs strong and doesn't act terribly tired. But, who's foolin' who, it's probably on borrowed time.
A crate or a good rebuilt motor, as mentioned earlier, would get you there with normal maintenance and care. RockAuto has them for as little as $1288 (minus 5% discount code) plus shipping. There is a refundable core charge. Or google ATK or Jasper. It's the way I'd go. Clutch & radiator, hoses and a new water pump are on the "of course" list--as well as paying your installer for the r&r and a lot of steam cleaning & engine paint. Some long blocks come with new oil pumps, but investigate a hi-vo pump and a new pick up. Shop around for someone to do the work. Check with the local auto parts stores and speed shops, trucking companies, too. You might be able to find a local gear head to do the work--and you could help (which as a gearhead owner I like the idea of.) Try putting out requests here on the Dakota forum--one of us might be interested in doing the work & making a few extra bucks.
Invest in a OEM Factory Service Manual. (I got mine on Ebay for about $20)
I would think you could get it all done for just south of $3 grand maybe $3500.
I kinda feel your pain about not doing the engine yourself. I live in a situation where I could probably sneak the work--but I'm kickin' retirement age myself pretty good--and while the spirit is still excited, the body grumbles for days & days. I did the rear main and pan gasket, the intake manifold seals and gaskets, valley pan, & overhauled the cooling system on mine. Things seem to take twice as long and hurt even longer. (The rear main replacement required dropping the front differential--which got a good cleaning and new seals in the process.)
At this point, I wouldn't be too worried about performance mods--I'd be concentrating on getting a good running engine in and sorted. Chips, headers, and better flowing exhaust can come later--be sure to have anti seize used when installing the exhaust manifolds--makes life easier later.
#6
I say just get the heads done that should be fine for another 100K
I understand the age thing man at the 50+ mark it seems like everything just gets harder on your body to deal with and recover from
The key is stretch stretch and more stretching mornings mild calisthenics’ yoga whatever it takes to keep the stiffness away. Otherwise OUCH is the word you will hear every morning
I still do a ton of my own work who's old not I not yet
I understand the age thing man at the 50+ mark it seems like everything just gets harder on your body to deal with and recover from
The key is stretch stretch and more stretching mornings mild calisthenics’ yoga whatever it takes to keep the stiffness away. Otherwise OUCH is the word you will hear every morning
I still do a ton of my own work who's old not I not yet
#7
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#9
The thread got me to thinkin' (dangerous!) My 96 has more than 230k on the engine. It runs pretty good, and doesn't use oil.
That said, I'm gonna start putting money aside ($50 a week?) for a rebuilt V8. Marshall (Rockauto) sells a 5.9 for about $100 more than a 5.2 (with a slight penalty on core refund.) And I'm thinking that my old truck (fairly rust free) is something I'd like to keep driving for another 1 or 2 hunnert k. $2 grand is pretty cheap driving--for a truck that you really like.
That said, I'm gonna start putting money aside ($50 a week?) for a rebuilt V8. Marshall (Rockauto) sells a 5.9 for about $100 more than a 5.2 (with a slight penalty on core refund.) And I'm thinking that my old truck (fairly rust free) is something I'd like to keep driving for another 1 or 2 hunnert k. $2 grand is pretty cheap driving--for a truck that you really like.
#10