My tweeters work just fine without any mods at all. I just plugged in the door speakers and they worked fine. They're even pretty balanced with the other speakers.

Has anyone tried making a sub box to replace the jump seat? I did a custom stealth box for my frontier and it worked great. Here's the build for it.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f...b-build-75719/

 

JL Audio makes a Stealth Box for 3rd Gen Dakota's, it replaces the console and adds a down-firing sub. They used to make one for a Ram, but I don't know if they make one for earlier Dakota's. Stealth Boxes sounded good but were a royal pain to install and they needed a boat load of power to sound good.

Jimmy

 

I believe the OE tweeter is 4 ohm. It really does not matter anyway because the tweeter has a capacitor on it which will skew the real impedance away from 4 ohm, probably raises it a bit. You can wire the tweets in parallel with the mid and it will work fine.

Removing the door panel is easy. 2 phillips heads in the very bottom edge, one in the sail panel, a T25 Torx behind the round panel in the door handle cup, another one just below the door pull. Then use a window crank clip removal tool to remove the window handle and lift straight up on the panel. Unsnap the door lock and latch rods from the door handle, unplug the tweeter and the panel is off. Not hard at all.

Jimmy

 

I think MTX used to make a sub that replaced the tool-tray under the back seat. I actually use that tool tray, so my solution worked out well. I can still open both sides without a problem.

I'm electric, so I dont have to deal with the window crank. Sounds easy enough. Long gone are the days of broken door panel clips?

Are the fronts the same 3 hole pattern? I hate paying crutchfield's asinine prices, but the adapters/value are probably comparable to buying the wood from home depot.

 

Yup, I have one in mine. Girls like to ride in the back seat for some reason.

 

I never figured out why they like harley's, either.

Also, ordering some Sound Ordinance P52's and 300hz bass blockers. $50 with brackets and wiring, I'll accept that.

 

the capacitor adds to the impedance below the cutoff frequency. Above the cutoff, it is invisible. I'm capping the fronts at 300 when I put them in, so under 300 will be high impedance, 300-8000 or so will be 4 ohms into high ohms (for high ohms result), and above 8000 or so will be 4 into 4 for a 2 ohm load.

 

Front and rear speakers are the same size and bolt pattern. MDF is a much better way to install the speakers plus 1/2" mdf will bring the speaker right up close to the back side of the grille in the door panel, it can help improve the sound a bit.

No broken door panel clips, just be sure to lift straight up on the panel, don't pull it outward or you will snap the right-angle plastic tabs on the back of the panel. Also make sure the right angle tab above the door pull slides back in place or the panel will have too much flex when you pull the door shut. Probably would rattle too.

Jimmy

 

Easy enough. Getting AC done thursday or friday. Figuring speakers will arrive friday.

 

Front and rear are the same size, but the front are a not as deep. Some speakers won't fit on the fronts it they aren't shallow enough. Just fyi.