my transmission does have a fluid leak at the main seal and was wondering if these could be signs of low fluid or something else.

Coming to a stop when it shifts into first the rpms jump like 200-300 and the truck does lunge a little bit and sometimes after they jump the drop to about 500 then recover and other times they go down and stop at about 600.

then today i was at dairy queen and the truck was idling and it dropped/shuttered and recovered so i put it in park and then after a min the rpms started to kinda jump like 100 rpm or so just randomly.

last but least on some days when i start it in the morning, the first time i take off 1st gear seems a little jumpy but after the first time it shifts it goes away completely.

 

As far as the "floating shift" in between gears it could be caused by a governor solenoid and a pressure sensor in the transmission. Mine is doing the same thing but in between 2nd and 3rd gear. I put TransX transmission additive in mine and it has elimated the float in between gears. I'm sure it's no permanent fix but it has helped a lot. I wouldn't recommend putting Lucas in because its way to thick. It may help it but I've seen it clog up the transmission filter causing the transmission to burn up. Check your transmission fluid on a pretty regular basis because you don't want it to leak completely out. If I were you I would go ahead and fix the leak plus look into the gov solenoid and pressure sensor more closely. Might as well fix everything at once if your financially able to do so.

I don't think the idling problem is from the transmission. Air to fuel ratio mixtures will affect your idle. If its idling rough I would first test the TPS and the MAP Sensor with a volt meter. Those two sensors can cause rough idle and rpm surges. If they test out okay I would start looking into plugs, plug wires, ect and possibly vacuum leak.

 

Ok i do put fluid in it but have been putting Lucas trans fix in it i will have to try that transX stuff. Also i did notice i have a sensor on the bottom of my transmission that the wires are showing copper, could that maybe be some the problem?

 

First thing is keep up with the service level of the transmission. Get her hot and then put in N and check the level on flat level ground.
(Recommend getting the leak fixed at some point else just keep an eye on level)

Secondly. .check your IAC on the back of the throttle valve assembly; make sure its clean.. My truck used to do the exact* same thing your talking about until i got a new IAC but also i replaced my MAP sensor and TPS.. (TPS had no change as it was not the problem; but 'clicking' from the IAC and then after changing MAP sensor she ran like a dream. )

I think most likely the issue is the MAP sensor not reading right and secondly the IAC doing weird stuff..

 

i will have to test the map, iac and tps. may take the throttle body off and clean it again as well. i have replaced the iac and tps a couple of months ago but you never know when they go bad

 

Sounds with all things considered perhaps the MAP sensor.. but I'm just basing it off my own problems I had.. which sound very similar to yours but i cant say it's actually your issue. You can find a Map sensor online

Here is one from a trusted seller i have bought parts from on Ebay.. $20.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AS88-Manifold-Pressure-MAP-Sensor-/380689892215?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a2e2c377
And even if its not the issue; its only 20 bucks

 

Checking the IAC? No, just take it off and clean it--they tend to get carbon build up so a little brake cleaner (well, actually a lot) and a soft brush may help. If it's gone bad, cleaning won't help.

And Jon is right about the MAP sensor. And on Dakota's they are so affordable, you can change them out like you would the PCV valve (change that too, while you're at it.)

Your transmission fluid leak, is it the pan gasket or does it look like it's coming out the inspection cover at the very front of the trannie? If it's the one under the torque converter, it requires removing the engine. If you do that, be sure to replace the front and rear main seals & pan gasket on the engine while it's out.

I'm planning to change engines this fall and considering pulling my trannie and transfer case for a major reseal. Sick of oil on the carport floor!

 

Checking the IAC means check it for carbon build up and gunk.. LOL

My trannie has a leak right at the end of the transmission where it attaches to the well.. I'm not sure what to call it as it's really not a bob tail; its the part of the transmission that would normally attach to the bob tail; instead it attaches to the HD transfer case..

It's going to be a pain to fix it.. but funny it really only leaks when its on an incline.. when level it doesnt leak.. (Like in my garage) .. but in my drive way which has an incline.. it leaks.. LOL..

and damn strait about the MAP; those can be had from E-bay for cheap; even Rock Auto sales them cheaper* than parts house; but rather just go with reputable e-bay sellers and buy one for 20 bucks..

I got mine which was a hell of a deal; $18 from the same guy i posted above; it was i forget the Manf name but they used to be GM's direct supplier and make damn good aftermarket parts.. better than BWD or the rest of em.

Remember; the symptoms in the other thread with the Transmission shifts are mainly the Gov. Sol. and pressure sensor but what controls those as well is also the map sensor and TPS and the TV Cable; if one of them is reading wrong it will make the rest do crazy stuff..

My float went away after replacing the Sensor and Gov Sol. I only had it happen like once or twice when shifting right as i hit a bump after replacing both.. guess something wasn't settled in or soemthing id... .. but it is really quick blipp being its causing the fluid to bounce around or w/e... I have not had the problem since then after about a week of driving after replacement...

TPS i replaced as TS for something else that had nothing to do with anything and had no issue at all.. still have the holly OEM one in a box incase i ever need it.

IAC- replaced it because it used to "CLICK" loudly when cold but really did not effect anything i know of.. replaced it for the hell of it and CLICK sound went away.. this helped with dying in reverse when cold.. but it soon came back slightly but not as bad.. as well as the Engine fluxuations sometimes it would bogg down to like 300 rpm and bounce up and down for no reason.. once or twice would die.. or bounce back up high *** RPM and then finally settle down after bouncing RPM> this lead me to the MAP sensor as clearly the IAC was working fine.

Replaced the MAP sensor and boom boom pow.. those issues went away and then i got a much better shift pattern instead of feeling like i was ramming thorugh a wall when it shifted from 1st to 2nd.. it was smooth and constant.. depending on where my RPM was to relation with actual speed.

So based off my exp. the MAP sensor after the IAC (whcih clicked thus telling me it needed replacing anyways) was the key to fixing the issue.

Just don't confuse the 2-3 'float' for the other issues though.. two separate issues but could be associated with teh MAP reading weird though***