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best performance upgrade?

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  #21  
Old 09-11-2013, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Blacknights
If I had to select a few people here with experience and know how about the older designs, I'd suggest ^this guy^ as one of them. ..... But his list is very good, 5,8&9 are where you draw the line at with modifications if you want this vehicle to stay relatively normal. These are more racing modifications, 5 does help with preserving the tranny while towing, but it isn't considered necessary unless you're often at/exceeding the tranny's design/GVWR.
Thanks, Blacknight!

The trans cooler also helps when you're launching off the torque converter at full stall.

"relatively normal" is a relative term. Think of it this way-

1. V8 throttle body on V6 (V8 can go to a fastman) -> Visually the same
2. Harland Sharp mopar 1.7 Rockers -> hide under the valve covers
3. SCT or other tuner -> Hides between subwoofers, out of sight
4. 4.10 gears (I have Nitro), as suggested, 4.56 will match your tires better -> hides inside axle housing
5. External trans cooler- mine is a 16 pass 10" fan under bed -> hides under bed (but you can hear the fan running
6. Lincoln Mark 8 Fan (similar to Taurus fan) -> Looks mostly stock, like it belongs there
7. 180 degree thermostat. Stock is a 195, don't go to 160, will throw a code -> hides in thermostat housing
8. I have methanol injection to assist the aggressive SCT tune I have -> plumbed into back of TB spacer, have to look for it (fuel line looks like a vacuum hose)
9. MSD digital 6 ignition and HVC 6 coil (wont do any good on street- it's for racing) -> The only thing that visually stands out
 
  #22  
Old 09-11-2013, 02:43 PM
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Okay that launching, I wasn't keeping that in mind because he was talking towing but now you know dakota5.9 that you can launch with no problems . Yes I agree with you it is relative. I actually wasn't meaning it in visual terms. So I clarify, for me that is where the vehicle changes status from lightly modified where it is basic bolt-ons.

IMO the stages are:

Lightly Modified (relatively normal/stock)- Bolt-ons (this include suspension mods w/ exception to SAS) and basic computer stuff

Mildly Modified- Full modification of Intake and Exhaust components, Tranny/Drive-train changes (diffs, tcm mods), programmer tuning, cooling upgrades

Heavily Modified- Full modification of Intake and Exhaust components, built tranny/drive-train, custom engine tuning, cooling upgrades, internal engine component modification, structural chassis/frame reinforcement

Racing- No longer street legal
 
  #23  
Old 09-11-2013, 04:51 PM
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Yea, I'm definitely somewhere between those last 2. I've been trying to figure out how to tweak the rear suspension to keep the right rear from spinning. Right now I have a custom right rear link that's 2" longer to try and push that corner down. Don't think it's working, though. Locker is more than I'd like to budget...should have done it with the gear change.

Sitting at stall on the convertor makes heat. When we warm up the camaro, sitting on the transbrake for 20 seconds off-idle brings the fluid up 15 degrees. I don't have my gauge hooked up yet, but I stage at 1200 and footbrake launch at 1700. If the stage control/ABS hack works, I'll have the chip set at 2000.
 

Last edited by magnethead; 09-11-2013 at 07:13 PM.
  #24  
Old 09-11-2013, 07:19 PM
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Also, let me explain a little on the methanol injection-

Keep in mind that dad and I have built our race engine several times over, edging for a little this and a little that. When I approached hemifever, I said I wanted the hottest tune I can get out of the magnum heads and the stock compression ratio of 9.1 : 1. Thus, we landed at 32 degrees timing- which technically were to require 94 octane fuel for that compression ratio, and would go up accordingly. Considering the engine is 150,000+ miles, 93 would be borderline. The methanol is to help arrest any pre-ignition. Original intentions were to retard the timing through the MSD by 10 degrees on the street, and run the methanol at full timing. Well, that never happened, as I didn't find any ill effects running full timing on the street. But the ability is still there if I need it.
 
  #25  
Old 09-11-2013, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by magnethead
Yea, I'm definitely somewhere between those last 2. I've been trying to figure out how to tweak the rear suspension to keep the right rear from spinning. Right now I have a custom right rear link that's 2" longer to try and push that corner down.
Have you tried using a single air bag?
 
  #26  
Old 09-11-2013, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom A
Have you tried using a single air bag?
Not yet. I just need pure weight on that corner. What I really need to do is jack up the left front to push the weight over. I haven't put our scales under my truck and played with it, but I should.
 
  #27  
Old 09-12-2013, 12:32 AM
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Before we "accidental" jack this thread. Dakota5.9, do you have anymore questions, want specific advice or anything else?
 
  #28  
Old 09-12-2013, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Blacknights
Before we "accidental" jack this thread. Dakota5.9, do you have anymore questions, want specific advice or anything else?
He's probably stuck on the rig still...and suffering from information overload
 
  #29  
Old 09-12-2013, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by magnethead
He's probably stuck on the rig still...and suffering from information overload
I don't think that is a bad thing
It means we did it right
 
  #30  
Old 09-13-2013, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by baconfatlabs
Does yours eat water pumps like mine does? I have 78k on the truck and we're on pump #3....
this was the first one, at 125k. thought it was the problem of my running hot but didn't fix it, guess its onto a new radiator or getting the old one flushed. have a 180 tstat already, truck will run at 210 or alittle higher sometimes and its really pissing me off lol, clutch fan is good, my electric fan works. I thougt it was the water pump but no bueno.
 


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