Well I took my truck 4x4'ing, ended up playing in some mud and killing my power steering... However, I am not convinced that it is my power steering pump. When I try to turn the wheel on the ground, it is damn near impossible unless I am moving at a decent speed. With the truck lifted, the wheel is still extremely difficult to turn, but there a few semi-easy spots throughout the rotation. I cleaned and greased the steering shaft universal joints and those spin just fine when in the "semi-easy" spots. anyone ever destroyed the rack enough to make it extremely difficult to move like this?
when stuck in the mud, i did have it in 4lo 70-80% throttle for about 20seconds at a time, successfully boiling off about 1/3of the ps fluid in the resevoir
when stuck in the mud, i did have it in 4lo 70-80% throttle for about 20seconds at a time, successfully boiling off about 1/3of the ps fluid in the resevoir
If you boiled off the fluid you overheated the p/s pump. The only way to test it is to put a pressure and flow gauge on the pump.
FLOW AND PRESSURE TEST
(1) Check the power steering belt to ensure it is in good condition and adjusted properly.
(2) Connect pressure gauge hose from the Power Steering Analyzer to Tube 6844.
(3) Connect Adapter 6826 to Power Steering Analyzer test valve end.
(4) Disconnect the high pressure hose from the power steering pump.
(5) Connect the tube to the pump hose fitting.
(6) Connect the power steering hose from the steering gear to the adapter.
(7) Open the test valve completely.
(8) Start engine and let idle long enough to circulate power steering fluid through flow/pressure test gauge and to get air out of the fluid. Then shut off engine.
(9) Check fluid level, add fluid as necessary. Start engine again and let idle.
(10) Gauge should read below 862 kPa (125 psi), if above, inspect the hoses for restrictions and repair as necessary. The initial pressure reading should be in the range of 345-552 kPa (50-80 psi).
(11) Increase the engine speed to 1500 RPM and read the flow meter. If the flow rate (GPM) is below specification, (refer to pump specification chart for GPM) the pump should be replaced.
CAUTION: The following test procedure involves testing maximum pump pressure output and flow control valve operation. Do not leave valve closed for more than three seconds as the pump could be damaged.
(12) Close valve fully three times and record highest pressure indicated each time. All three readings must be above specifications and within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other.
† Pressures above specifications but not within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other, replace pump.
† Pressures within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other but below specifications, replace pump.
(13) Open the test valve and turn the steering wheel to the extreme left and right positions three times against the stops. Record the highest pressure reading at each position. Compare readings to the pump specifications chart. If pressures readings are not within 50 psi of each other, the gear is leaking internally and must be replaced.
CAUTION: Do not force the pump to operate against the stops for more than 2 to 3 seconds at a time because, pump damage will result.
For the 4.7, the max pressure should be: 1450 psi and the flow rate 2.4 - 2.8 gpm.
FLOW AND PRESSURE TEST
(1) Check the power steering belt to ensure it is in good condition and adjusted properly.
(2) Connect pressure gauge hose from the Power Steering Analyzer to Tube 6844.
(3) Connect Adapter 6826 to Power Steering Analyzer test valve end.
(4) Disconnect the high pressure hose from the power steering pump.
(5) Connect the tube to the pump hose fitting.
(6) Connect the power steering hose from the steering gear to the adapter.
(7) Open the test valve completely.
(8) Start engine and let idle long enough to circulate power steering fluid through flow/pressure test gauge and to get air out of the fluid. Then shut off engine.
(9) Check fluid level, add fluid as necessary. Start engine again and let idle.
(10) Gauge should read below 862 kPa (125 psi), if above, inspect the hoses for restrictions and repair as necessary. The initial pressure reading should be in the range of 345-552 kPa (50-80 psi).
(11) Increase the engine speed to 1500 RPM and read the flow meter. If the flow rate (GPM) is below specification, (refer to pump specification chart for GPM) the pump should be replaced.
CAUTION: The following test procedure involves testing maximum pump pressure output and flow control valve operation. Do not leave valve closed for more than three seconds as the pump could be damaged.
(12) Close valve fully three times and record highest pressure indicated each time. All three readings must be above specifications and within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other.
† Pressures above specifications but not within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other, replace pump.
† Pressures within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other but below specifications, replace pump.
(13) Open the test valve and turn the steering wheel to the extreme left and right positions three times against the stops. Record the highest pressure reading at each position. Compare readings to the pump specifications chart. If pressures readings are not within 50 psi of each other, the gear is leaking internally and must be replaced.
CAUTION: Do not force the pump to operate against the stops for more than 2 to 3 seconds at a time because, pump damage will result.
For the 4.7, the max pressure should be: 1450 psi and the flow rate 2.4 - 2.8 gpm.
but with the front end lifted off the ground, the steering wheel was just as hard to turn, both with the engine on and off, the ps pump wouldnt cause back pressure to make the wheel harder to turn, especially not allowing it to free up in a just few spots
Disconnect the u-joint and check it, just to rule it out. Look at the rest of the suspension, did you damage anything causing the rack to bind?
After eliminating the above the diagnostic chart for the steering is:
1. Low pump pressure
2. Internal gear leak.
Really, the only thing you can test is the pump output. If it's good, replace the rack.
After eliminating the above the diagnostic chart for the steering is:
1. Low pump pressure
2. Internal gear leak.
Really, the only thing you can test is the pump output. If it's good, replace the rack.
I'm gonna say you overheated the gears and ate a few teeth. That's my opinion.
If it's as hard to turn with engine off as it is on, with the wheels in the air, then pump backpressure isn't the culprit, you just flat out chewed up a rack.
Also, pop open your rack boots. You might not have boiled the fluid off, you might have blown a seal or two.
If it's as hard to turn with engine off as it is on, with the wheels in the air, then pump backpressure isn't the culprit, you just flat out chewed up a rack.
Also, pop open your rack boots. You might not have boiled the fluid off, you might have blown a seal or two.
I'm not saying the rack isn't bad, just that the pump should also be tested/eliminated.
You may end up changing both anyways.
You may end up changing both anyways.