I know it's off original topic, but i'm going to stick these tidbits here so i can find them later.

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For enabling/disabling convertor lockup:

http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20...p%20Switch.pdf

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index....isable-switch/ -> http://forum.mopar1973man.com/upload...8698167872.jpg

PDF page 947, section 8W - 80 - 62 "Powertrain Control Module C2" (agrees to PDF above, pin B11)

PDF page 727, section 8W - 31 - 2 "Transmission Control System"
Pin C2-B11 (18 AWG OR/BLK) grounds TCC solenoid receiving power from PDC Transmission Control Relay/connector C105 (16 AWG RD). PDC Trans Control relay is grounded/enabled via PCM C2-B30 (18 AWG PK).

Essentially, grounding pin B11 with PDC trans relay enabled (or bypassed per PDF above) will lock up convertor, un-grounding it (or disconnecting from PCM) will prevent lockup. The PCM needs a dummy load, so a resistor is added for this reason.

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Tapping 2-step and/or line-lock(s) into brake light switch:

PDF page 630, section 8W - 10 - 25 "Power Distribution"
Brake lamp switch is fed constant power via 20A PDC Fuse 5 (14 AWG PK/DB) and switches to Junction block {8W-12-2/3} (14 AWG WT/TN) (C11-15) feeding CHMSL (C4-5), Trailer Tow (C1-2/3), and combination flasher (C12-8).

PDF page 649, section 8W - 12 - 4 "Junction Block"
PDF page 666, section 8W - 12 - 21 "Junction Block"
PDF page 721, section 8W - 30 - 28 "Fuel/Ignition System"

Looks like the best/easiest tap place will be at the switch itself, pin #2, 14 AWG white/tan running up to the junction block

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Note that there are 2 white wires on the brake switch. The 14AWG white with tan tracer at pin 2, and a 20AWG white with pink tracer at pin 6. It looks like it will be easy to tap once I get a tap splicer. I'm going to use a 10-12AWG tap splicer, the 14-16 that I have has way too small of a notch, i'm afraid it'd cut the wire all the way through.

On the convertor wire, I opened the loom further back from the PCM, next to the AC drier tower. The wires seem to be somewhat haphazardly placed in the loom, and an orange with black tracer just happened to be on top of the stack. I will go back through the loom and see if it is a unique wire, then I will continuity test it to pin B11 to ensure it's the right one. Then I will cut it, put 1/4" quick connects on it, and attach the relay.

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Successfully tapped the brake light wire using a yellow 10-12 AWG tap splice and ran the tapline through my previously used grommet (now has about 10 wires going through it) and wrapped it around the MSD for now.

Also probed the wire in the PCM loom and verified it in pin B11 for the convertor circuit and placed the relay with pigtail in that general area and strung the wire across the engine bay. I will go back out later and route the cable properly. Tomorrow I should be able to complete the wiring.

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got the 2-step/line lock relay wired in, but it doesn't seem to be engaging. Made for a maze of wires going between the 2 relays. May have simply popped a fuse, won't know until I work on it in the daylight. I had a positive and negative swapped on the contacts, though I didn't see any sparks. Glad I went back over it though and caught that before i turned anything on....though it may be possible that the 2 i swapped were on NC contacts.

Just checked so i'd feel better overnight. Turns out the relay was welded shut. Switched a known good relay in and everything works right on the multimeter, but 2 step isn't activating. going to ref the manual.

Manual says the 2 step minimum is 2,000 RPM. I have it set at 1100 for testing. That'd explain alot!

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Drove it around today. I assume the retard circuit is working correctly, that should help smooth out some of the idle and fuel mileage issues I've been having...maybe. Certainly help reduce some of the top end pinging. 2 step circuit is definitely working as intended. Just need to add in the torque convertor unlock circuit and I should be done.

 

Grinding the tip of the ring gear off is the way to go. Allows for easier installation and maintenance. This is a common practice and does not interfere with a proper gear mesh pattern. It also avoids using weaker notched cross-pins.

 

nah, he pulled the carrier and took the ring gear off, he doesn't grind on things....he builds everything to the same caliber as his desert pre-runners. Everything gets done right, not half-assed.

Looks like I'm going to tap-splice the brake switch for the 2 step (and line loc in future) and figure out something for the convertor lock up pin. I really don't want to cut the wire to disconnect it but I may not have an option.

Here's a functional diagram of how everything should work once it's all wired up. No telling how it'll actually end up...haha. The MSD timing control and 2 step wires are on the unit attached to the PDC lid, the main switch and brake light switch are both under the steering column, i forget where the hell i put the methanol pump relay, the torque convertor wire is accessible either at the PCM or transmission end, and the line-lock and it's disable switch aren't installed yet.

I need to back-trace the methanol pump's relay and tap the pump side for the circuit extension, cut the convertor wire and add it's relay in, and tap the brake light switch and run it to a relay for the 2 step and future linelock. Really isn't alot of work other than tracing what i've done and adding onto it. I damn near need my own harness for this stuff....between this circuit and the lighting circuit, I've got alot of stuff going on with relays.

Idea%20note_20140308_223523_01.jpg

 

There's nothing half-assed about it, it's no where near the mesh pattern. Randy's Ring and Pinion endorses the practice.

If anything, using weakened notched cross-pins is half-assed because it actually weakens something. I refuse to use them in my vehicles considering I've broken a full Lock-Right pin. If I didn't grind the ring gear and used a notched pin I would have broken it much, much sooner. Pins are notched to allow installation and removal of the c clips with the pin still in the carrier.

 

not sure I follow on how the pin affects the C clips. I didn't get to watch them other than though a window from 50 feet away, but I know they took the ring gear off and used the full cross pin that came in the box. The only grinding they had to do was to open the window up on the locker a touch to squeeze the C clips through

 

The cross pin serves two purposes on a c clip type axle, it drives the spider gears (or locker in this case) and it also keeps the axles from sliding inward, keeping the c clips securely in place. Normally the pin has to be removed to allow the axles to be pushed inward to remove the c clips. When this cant be done there is either a notch along half the length of the pin to allow it to slide partially out of the carrier (A factory Ford thing) or there's a notch in the middle that allows it to be rotated 90º from it's normal position and provides a space to push the axles inward.
The only example of the Ford style I can find happens to be broken.


The more common style.


Hope that helps.

 

I've only worked on axles with c clip eliminators or full floaters, thus why i didn't know that. I'm not sure what trick my guy uses. I just know he had to grind the window open a little to get the clips in.

 

I've been editing post 11 for the side track of this post, getting the 2 step and convertor unlock circuits put in. Went out tonight and re-traced down the methanol relay...but the pump isn't coming on for some reason. Hoping it's just a bad ground (it's grounding to the trans crossmember with a self tapper). I ran the support wire for the convertor relay a good while ago so that's going to be first (it's also the easiest), then I'll run the brake switch tap up to it's relay next to the pump relay. Not really harder than the convertor relay, but a little more labor intensive.