Need Help with Rear Main Seal
Need Help with Rear Main Seal
Hi all, so I am replacing my clutch and rear main seal on my 98 dakota, with the 5.2L and 4 wheel drive. I currently have the transmission, transfer case, and clutch out of the truck, along with the front differential, starter, inspection plate and drivelines. I have the oil pan loosened and ready to drop, however I have an issue. The support brackets for the front differential and transmission appear to be part of the motor mounts and are in the way of the oil pan. They attach and wrap around the motor mounts and require supporting the motor in some way?
Does anyone have experience doing this job? I have the Pavement Sucks article as a reference along with a Haynes manual, but the article is a bit different as the transmission brackets are different in that article. I need to remove at least one of the brackets (driver's side) and would need to support the motor, but where would I support it? I don't have a picker, but was hoping I could use some 2x4s below or a 4x4 from above with a chain maybe? It got late last night for me to really look at it, but I was hoping someone here had experience with this job. Ideas on jacking locations or support locations? How did you do it? Any help is greatly appreciated!
I found this post that mentions not having to lift the motor, it is hard to tell looking at the transmission to motor bracket if it is part of the motor mount or just wraps around and can be removed without the motor going unsupported. Without the transmission attached and bolted to the crossmember currently I don't want to have the motor only supported by one mount.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...n-removal.html
"no need to lift the engine, or remove exhaust. more than enough room to do so. replace the rear main seal while youre in there."
"there is enough room on a 4x4 to do it without liftin the engine. i always seem to have to remove the trans support out of the way though, but other than that, you can shimmy it out of there."
Does anyone have experience doing this job? I have the Pavement Sucks article as a reference along with a Haynes manual, but the article is a bit different as the transmission brackets are different in that article. I need to remove at least one of the brackets (driver's side) and would need to support the motor, but where would I support it? I don't have a picker, but was hoping I could use some 2x4s below or a 4x4 from above with a chain maybe? It got late last night for me to really look at it, but I was hoping someone here had experience with this job. Ideas on jacking locations or support locations? How did you do it? Any help is greatly appreciated!
I found this post that mentions not having to lift the motor, it is hard to tell looking at the transmission to motor bracket if it is part of the motor mount or just wraps around and can be removed without the motor going unsupported. Without the transmission attached and bolted to the crossmember currently I don't want to have the motor only supported by one mount.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...n-removal.html
"no need to lift the engine, or remove exhaust. more than enough room to do so. replace the rear main seal while youre in there."
"there is enough room on a 4x4 to do it without liftin the engine. i always seem to have to remove the trans support out of the way though, but other than that, you can shimmy it out of there."
Last edited by gnelson49; Mar 24, 2014 at 04:37 PM.
Search a topic on here called My First Engine Swap. I may have posted pics of the bay with the Engine out and pics of both motor mounts. I know I have some on my phone.
IIRC, the only bracket that would be in your way would be the differential to tranny bell housing.
However you have a 5 speed and I have an auto. I'm not familiar with the 5 speed tranny but it must bolt up the same way as my 42re since I know the 5.2 will bolt up fine.
Seen if those pics may help ya.
IIRC, the only bracket that would be in your way would be the differential to tranny bell housing.
However you have a 5 speed and I have an auto. I'm not familiar with the 5 speed tranny but it must bolt up the same way as my 42re since I know the 5.2 will bolt up fine.
Seen if those pics may help ya.
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From: Eastside Tucson AZ
I did mine on a 96 V8 4x4. It required removing the front axle, all of the engine mounts & axle support brackets, the starter, and it was still tight--would have been easier if I'd also dropped the steering cross link. A good time to replace the engine mounts.
YMMV. While I had my front axle out, I replaced the axle seals, as they were seeping diff oil. Your front axle is aluminum, I think, mine was cast iron--I used a motorcycle lift to get it back up in--wasn't easy, but do-able.
I supported the engine by putting blocks of wood between the crossmember and the harmonic balancer. On the 96, it was necessary to remove and tie up the dist. cap to get the engine high enough to get the pan off.
I replaced my oil pump, too. Relatively cheap to do and just good practice while you have it off, to get to the rear main cap. I tried a hi-vo pump, it wouldn't fit & interfered with the crank rotation.
Hope this is helpful.
YMMV. While I had my front axle out, I replaced the axle seals, as they were seeping diff oil. Your front axle is aluminum, I think, mine was cast iron--I used a motorcycle lift to get it back up in--wasn't easy, but do-able.
I supported the engine by putting blocks of wood between the crossmember and the harmonic balancer. On the 96, it was necessary to remove and tie up the dist. cap to get the engine high enough to get the pan off.
I replaced my oil pump, too. Relatively cheap to do and just good practice while you have it off, to get to the rear main cap. I tried a hi-vo pump, it wouldn't fit & interfered with the crank rotation.
Hope this is helpful.
I did mine on a 96 V8 4x4. It required removing the front axle, all of the engine mounts & axle support brackets, the starter, and it was still tight--would have been easier if I'd also dropped the steering cross link. A good time to replace the engine mounts.
YMMV. While I had my front axle out, I replaced the axle seals, as they were seeping diff oil. Your front axle is aluminum, I think, mine was cast iron--I used a motorcycle lift to get it back up in--wasn't easy, but do-able.
I supported the engine by putting blocks of wood between the crossmember and the harmonic balancer. On the 96, it was necessary to remove and tie up the dist. cap to get the engine high enough to get the pan off.
I replaced my oil pump, too. Relatively cheap to do and just good practice while you have it off, to get to the rear main cap. I tried a hi-vo pump, it wouldn't fit & interfered with the crank rotation.
Hope this is helpful.
YMMV. While I had my front axle out, I replaced the axle seals, as they were seeping diff oil. Your front axle is aluminum, I think, mine was cast iron--I used a motorcycle lift to get it back up in--wasn't easy, but do-able.
I supported the engine by putting blocks of wood between the crossmember and the harmonic balancer. On the 96, it was necessary to remove and tie up the dist. cap to get the engine high enough to get the pan off.
I replaced my oil pump, too. Relatively cheap to do and just good practice while you have it off, to get to the rear main cap. I tried a hi-vo pump, it wouldn't fit & interfered with the crank rotation.
Hope this is helpful.
I am replacing my oil pump and pickup tube along with the rear main and new pan gasket. I am ending up borrowing an engine hoist so I can support the motor long enough to remove the bracket between the engine, transmission and front differential that wraps around and is part of the motor mount. I think I can get the pan out with only one of the brackets removed so I may not have to loosen up the other motor mount, not sure quite yet. I got a hi-vol pump as well, we will see if it fits. Hopefully have the pan out tonight!
Thanks to both of you for the replies!