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Help Choosing Amp

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  #11  
Old 04-03-2014 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 01dak3.9
I specified class D because the amp will be completely enclosed with some vents cut into the box. It is a club cab and I am building a custom sob box that replaces the tool tray under the back seat. Will running the speakers through the head unit make any difference in sound? I will look into mono amps. I have about $500 to spend on the amp.
Save some $$$ and get an A/B amp, then mount it under the passenger seat for cooling. The one I linked to is like $160, very full featured and believe me, it will handle most anything you throw at it. You can even run the speaker outputs straight to it, no adapters needed - if you so desired.

I can't truly answer your question about running speakers directly via the head unit without more info. I don't know if you're keeping the OEM HU or swapping out. Don't know if you're using factory speakers or getting more powerful units. I can tell you that if you're spending $500 on an amp alone, just to power subs.... the system will be unbalanced. Heavy bass with relatively weaker highs and mids. Amp everything or go easier on the bass.
 
  #12  
Old 04-03-2014 | 05:52 PM
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The HU, speakers, and subs are in the original post. I got those subs because they were the shallowest mount I could find and had good reviews.
 
  #13  
Old 04-03-2014 | 06:40 PM
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My sound system is in my signature and I think I paid maybe $350 for all of it.

I personally think those amps are way above the rest of your selections and agree with Dodge 100% - it'll be unbalanced.

Shallow mount subs are your best bet and I agree those mounting depths are pretty good. Mine I think is about 4 inch mount dept and needs 3/4" of clearance. $60 for a shallow mount sub seems WAY too low though.

Edit: just realized they are on sale. Still $90 seems really good... damn US prices. Add another 25% for Canada!!
 
  #14  
Old 04-03-2014 | 08:25 PM
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I have been thinking ans decided that since I have the money now, I want to install all Kicker components with the same JVC head unit. I will still get 2 shallow mount 10s that have the same mounting depth as the Rockford ones. Should I get 1 ohm or 2 ohms?
 
  #15  
Old 04-03-2014 | 09:37 PM
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  #16  
Old 04-03-2014 | 10:30 PM
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That Kicker is a mono block amp, you need to keep the subs above 2 ohms mono to be stable and not shut the amp down. See if you can find two 8 ohm shallow mount subs. Those you could wire together in parallel and the amp would see a 2 ohm load which would be OK. Don't drop the load below 2 ohms, if you wired the two 1 ohm subs together in parallel it would be a .5 ohm load and the amp would see .25 ohms, which is way too low for any amp. If you wired the subs in series it would present a 1 ohm load which is also too low for the amp's specs. It would run hot and shut down, if it played at all.

The Kicker coaxials you have picked out should sound great. I had Kicker KS 60's in my truck for a couple of years and they sounded good until I smoked all 4 tweeters. Your JVC deck would do fine on the Kickers. JVC uses MOSFET outputs and between that and the built in equalizer curves and loudness/bass boost it should do fine. If you have the factory Infinity amplifier it will sound good as well.

Jimmy
 
  #17  
Old 04-03-2014 | 10:48 PM
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What if I got the 2 ohm version and wired them in series? I have the factory Infinity amp but was planning on selling it. Should I keep it hooked up to the new speakers?
 
  #18  
Old 04-03-2014 | 11:46 PM
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Two 2 ohm speakers in series is a 4 ohm load, which should be OK with that Kicker amp. I guess it's personal opinion on the Infinity amp. It takes high level speaker wire inputs from the deck so it really acts more like a booster than an amp but when you connect the deck with the Infinity amp the speakers will play very loud at less of a turn on the volume **** than it would if you did not have the amp connected. My own opinion is that it is better to not have the amp if you have a good high powered deck like a JVC or Pioneer. The Infinity amp just adds distortion at higher volume levels plus it is another component that may or may not fail, sooner or later. Deck power without the Infinity amp sounds cleaner to me but the system will work either way. The Infinity amp is only about 20 watts by 4 channels anyway, and the JVC probably has more power than that by itself.

Jimmy
 
  #19  
Old 04-03-2014 | 11:57 PM
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Ok thanks. I think I will remove it. Will this wiring kit work?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...icker-PK4.html
Do I need to run new wires for the speakers?
Would the remote bass control **** be good to have?
I am planning on making the box out of 3/4" MDF with a fiberglass bottom. How thick should the fiberglass be on the bottom?
 
  #20  
Old 04-04-2014 | 12:17 AM
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Wire kit looks good to me, expensive but good. 100% OFC wire is very expensive nowadays I guess. If you are taking out the Infinity amp, just extend the speaker wires from the kick panel up to the dash. No need for new wires if using deck power. If you were adding an amp to the mids and highs then yes it could be better to run new wires. Remote bass is good to have if it comes with the new amp, otherwise just use the sub volume on the deck. Remote bass **** may give you more fine tuning on the bass volume level if you need it. I don't have a lot of experience with glass but I would say half an inch on the bottom is probably OK. If using 10" subs you can use 1/2" mdf and maybe gain a little more airspace, also save a little cash on the mdf itself. 3/4" is a bit overkill for 10's.

Jimmy
 



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