No question on being bubble flare. Hard to tell the difference between 1.0 and 1.06 mm though on the thread pitch, though. You happen to have a pair of calipers you can measure the ID of the block port or OD of the nut threads with? OD of the threads should be 0.3937 inches if metric and 0.3739-0.3750 inches if english. Or just find a 3/8-24 bolt and hold them together and see if the threads interlock or are way off….

Looks like I will have a hell of a time, though…that extra unthreaded spot will not be fun to tighten into an adapter block. May not even go….

 

Just remember mine is a 97.

There were 3 brass compression coupling, then about 3" of original tube on each side of the splitter.

Ripped all that out and replaced the original splitter with a brass "T". Then put on a compression coupling then new line going each direction except up to the combination valve. Still got 3 extra brass colliers and the larger (crush?) nut. (one off each coupling). Not to mention the caliber trouble I'm sure you've read the thread. Was having a bad day.

Had the line going to rear brakes break under the door. Made a line used a union to connect lines with different flares. The side coming of the RWAL valve is bubble and the other side that connects to the rear brake hose is inverted.

Thanks for telling me which flare is which. Didn't know just always took to parts store and matched up.

 

Brother, I had a POS plastic calipers but can't find them. BUT I'll do you one better. I take the piece of line to the local hardware store. They have a nut sizer and I find the thread pitch for you. Wont be able to post the results until about 8pm tomorrow.

 

Sounds like you did it the smart way. Not sure why dodge did it the way they did.

Like I said, bubble looks kinda like a bubble with a hole poked in it. Inverted makes a V shaped opening (or inverted bubble, hence the name).

It's either metric 10mm or english 3/8.

My intentions are to screw the factory line into one of those adapters into the line lock, then get a piece of 12" line from the parts store to loop from the line lock back to the splitter block.

 

Money money money money .... money

 

runs the world into epic debt.

 

Here is a really good guide on brake lines, BTW: http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf

Screenshot2014-04-08at110225PM.png

Screenshot2014-04-08at110246PM.png

 

Remember mine is a 97.
the thread pitch is 12mm x 1.25
so says the check-a-thread station at local hardware store

 

Thanks, Kilgore.

 

Next plan may be to do what you did, scrap the factory splitter and switch things over to english. Or do an interface, somehow jump from the M12 (if thats what it is) to english 3/8 back to M12 with a custom made line. The problem is that not many M12 brake fitting exist, and they are all M12 x 1.0, I dont see any M12 x 1.25. I would basically have to make a new line from the combination valve to the line lock to the splitter.