Its too late now but let me check a few things tomorrow and I'll get back with you and I'll double check. I just used the thread checker at hardware store. I'll stop at parts store and take all pieces in to test fit. I'll get part numbers of the replacement line if I can. Guess I should have done that in the 1st place.

 

Just a note, that 12 MM x 1.25 MM is analogous to 0.472 inch x 20.32 threads per inch…. 1/2-20 is a standard american thread for brake lines, though a big on the oddly large side for 3/16 line…usually used for 1/4 or 5/16 line. Now that said, 12 x 1.25 does exist in a bubble brake fitting, but 12 x 1.0 seems more common.

 

I really don't want to make a custom brake line, but it looks like that may be my only option, to go from the combination valve to the line lock to the splitter. I may go back and revisit modifying the RWAL module to be a line lock of sorts for the back, if I can activate the block off value full duty cycle without damaging or overheating it. Then I can only worry about the fronts.

If the wheel side is an English nut, then I'd do like you did and replace everything from the combination valve to the hoses with new English line. Either way, this endeavor is not going to be easy or cheap. I may have to bite the bullet, remeasure what is on my truck, and find a match at the junkyard to make a donor line out of, cut in half and make English inverted. At least then I'd have freedom to do what I want. The idea is to keep the original line so I can revert to stock later.

 

did some poking around. Looks like every brake fitting from the combination valve down is 12mm. The splitter blocks do look like 12mm diameter (threads match the wrench flats), the wheel ends look like 10mm (threads smaller than wrench flats), and I couldn't tell the ports on the combination valve. Lines still come out to .200 on my calipers, which would be 5mm metric line or 3/16 if the cal's are off a little…lot.

The more I think about it, the more I think I need to just pull a set of lines off a junkyard truck, go to oreilly, and find a matching line there that is on the long side, and cut it in half then stick a 3/8-24 inverted flare on it.

 

to cloud things further, looking on oreilly's website under vehicle specific brake components, both front soft lines claim to be 10mm banjo to 3/8-24 female. A 1/2" wrench was way loose on those fittings, 12mm was pretty well. Why would a english thread nut have metric flats? anyone?

The rear says M10 x 1.0 junction to 3/8-24 female as well. Again, english thread, metric wrench?

doesn't specify a vehicle specific brake line. probably too much work to program in.

Also found out the RWAL solenoids are low duty cycle 12V, so using as a pseudo line-lock for the back is a no-go.

 

Well Head,

My splitter and line ends are to jucked up to tell what the thread pitch is.

Both the 12x1 and the 1/2x24 lines from advanced went in 3/4 turn into the splitter. But the 12x1.25 stud on the check-a-thread went in about 3/4 turn also. SO?
Donor from junk yard would be the best bet to find the correct pitch as far as I can tell. Unless you take your to parts store and check yourself.

When you start your project try not to mess up the original stuff. That way your truck wont be down. Or have plenty of adapters around to make something work.

Or you could buy line, a flaring tool, and an assortment of line nuts and make your own. That would be one way.

 

yea, that's why I'm wanting to have everything pretty much ready to get put on in one swing for front and rear so all that has to be done is re-bleed the brakes.

Junkyard it is.

 

scored both lines for $20 at junkyard. Looks like front is 12x1.0 at splitter and 10x1.0 at combination valve, and rear is 10x1.0 on both ends.

Going to push some PB blaster through them and see if the inside is clean, I may use them as-is. Not a bit of rust on the outside.

 

flare is 0.285 and tubing is 0.190 on the measuring calipers. So inconclusive there. It seems like 3/16 and 4.75mm are fairly interchangeable.

The smaller and larger threads interlock, so they are the same pitch, likely 1.0. Thus pretty sure it's 12.0 and 10.0 as previous post. I know O'R has 12 to 10 import hoses, but i don't know if they have them with unthreaded fittings.

edit- I just found these, but they look like they'd be too short, and no telling if they have unthreaded leads.

Size: 3/8"-24 Inverted To 12mm-1.0mm ISO Bubble Length: 8" http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0834&ppt=C0066

Size: 3/8"-24 SAE Inverted To 10mm-1.0mm ISO Bubble Length: 8" http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0834&ppt=C0066

 

On my 97 I had to make a line going to rear. Cause coming off the RWAL was bubble and going into the rear hose was inverted. Don't remember the thread pitch.

Dude you got some good info here. You should really post up some pics when you really dive in to this project.

Keep posting info. WE ARE FOLLOWING THIS.