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Won't stay running till she's warm

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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 03:13 PM
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Default Won't stay running till she's warm

Hello everyone. I have a 98 dodge Dakota sport v6 magnum with an air raid cold air intake, and jet performance module. My problem is that she won't stay running until I have warmed it up for 5 to 10 minutes at least. The check engine light is on as well. I literally just got her back from the mechanic for a new heater core and some other stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 06:09 PM
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It could be several things, including the O2 sensor. The first thing to do is to find out what the code is and start with that.
I will move this to the 2nd generation Dakota sub-forum.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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Need more info can be a hundred things. I was having the same exact problem turned out to b my pcm. Had to bring it inside and keep it warm nd she ran fine. But yes more info
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jessiejames
The check engine light is on as well. I literally just got her back from the mechanic for a new heater core and some other stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Doesn't make much sense to ask for help without posting what code the CEL is throwing.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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Clean the crap out of your throttle body and check to see if anyone tampered with the throttle plate screw.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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Default O2 sensor

One of the o2 sensors is bad for sure, how ever if I charge the battery I will get 2 or 3 good starts and then nothing. When I get a boost the battery gauge will come up slowly to just over 14 and will stay this way while the truck is running. But if I shut it off then I need another boost. And the headlights flicker like mad. I'm not sure if it's the alternator or the battery... I will test the battery tomorrow with a volt meter
 
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 10:10 PM
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definitely alternator. It should be keeping the battery topped off.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 11:00 PM
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The alternator is not charging the battery, yep.

1) Possibly bad alternator.

2) Possibly bad BATTERY - not taking the charge.

3) Possibly bad wiring between alternator and battery, preventing full charge (hint: What kind of shape are the battery terminals in? )

4) Possibly bad ground (again, battery terminals, and all wiring to the frame AT the battery, plus the other end of the negative battery wire to the block).

That'll cover most of the possible causes. Alternator first, then check the battery under load, then check the battery terminals, then the other ends of both cables.

RwP
 
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