There is no discussion about shims in the FSM. The only note is to make sure the tang on the CKP is flush before you tighten the bolt.

Also don't turn them as you put them in, you can damage the oil ring.

 

I found this: http://wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_082200a.pdf

My build code say's I'm not in the problem area, good!

 

Didn't know about that. Good find.

 

Curious, Dan- you write that as though the voltage should vary between 0 and 5V, but as I understand with our driveshaft hall sensors, it should be a binary output, 0 volts away from metal and 5 volts in proximity to metal. In the case of our D/S, there's 4 magnets and they pull the steel switch down to pass the digital signal. In the case of the 4.7 with the 16/32 tooth tone rings, I believe the magnet is in the sensor, and it pulls the switch closed when attracted to the metal of the tooth on the tone ring.

 

The signal has never been an issue for me, truck don't run, don't want to check that, now. Was wondering about the two wires with voltage. Got the answer I was looking for.

and....
I've know they were both Hall effect sensors since, well forever. I have worked in the field since I was taking in school back in the 90's, and I've been ASE certified, I'm still an NY state inspector, but since I've become Disabled do to this lovely profession I've started to let things expire. I was the only A tech in 2 different shops I've worked, and I always end up as some sort of manager.

At any rate, the sensors either put out a sign wave or a more digital on / off signal, doesn't matter, I was really wondering about testing the sensor in my hand. There should be a resistance reading between two pins and none on the others. The coil has a certain amount of resistance, I do no know that value.
Also it depends on which signal is sent through the sensor as to how to test the ohms. I cant remember which way is which anymore.

I tested both of the ones I have and am getting odd readings so have figured the sensors are bad anyways.
With my DVOM in The diode continuity check mode(when it beeps) I get 1.789 ohms on the ground (center) to one coil post (outer), open circuit between both coil pins(the outer 2) and nothing between ground and the other coil pin.
The other sensor has 1.899 Ground to coil pin, .669 ground to other coil pin and open circuit on both coil pins.
They both must be bad, I'll check out the new one if my wife ever shows up, I've been waiting all day.

 

Unprocessed the signal should be a sine wave and the voltage vary as the target approaches or moves away.

I could not find an ohm reading for the sensors either.

 

The new Mopar sensor read 1.717 from one coil pin to ground and .665 from the other coil pin to ground and was open on the two outer pins. So I would guess the one sensor I have should be good, but it does not snap into the head like the Mopar one, and while I was double checking it I found something must be loose because I was loosing continuity now and again while moving the pin around a touch.

At any rate my truck fired right up with the Mopar and seems good to go. Now I have to replace that leaking wheel cylinder, but parts stores are closed, it is Thanksgiving Day.
Thanks for your input again!!
Happy Turkey day all!

 

I'm no mechanic, so I do not understand all the electronics, but I think the issue with Mopar vs non-Mopar was the clearance, at least on the crankshaft position sensor.

So I imagine a non-Mopar sensor might test just fine, but when positioned into place, it might be the wrong distance from the flywheel. I think that is what my mechanic was talking about anyways.

Glad you got it fixed.

 

Hey guys! Any luck solving this issue or any more guidance that you can offer. Changed both cam and crank positioning sensors and still has code P0340. Cranks like crazy but won’t start.
i will just keep following this feed thank you in advance.

 

Yep,mopar brands are the way to go with the many sensors on these trucks!