Tie Rods
You can't just replace he tie rods. You have to replace the entire rack. Reman rack was $150 or so at Napa with like a $100 core charge. Changed mine in the driveway. Probably lists at 1.5-2.0 hours in the book. Depending on how accurately it's put back in, you may need an alignment to re-set the toe.
Last edited by magnethead; Dec 7, 2014 at 07:46 PM.
Actually, you can change the tie rod ends, all 4 of them.
They're actually fairly easy to do, the inners are a bit more difficult since you have to remove the bellows to access them. I don't know the book time but you'd also need an alignment afterwards. You can get them close by counting the threads if you want to do it yourself.
They're actually fairly easy to do, the inners are a bit more difficult since you have to remove the bellows to access them. I don't know the book time but you'd also need an alignment afterwards. You can get them close by counting the threads if you want to do it yourself.
Actually, you can change the tie rod ends, all 4 of them.
They're actually fairly easy to do, the inners are a bit more difficult since you have to remove the bellows to access them. I don't know the book time but you'd also need an alignment afterwards. You can get them close by counting the threads if you want to do it yourself.
They're actually fairly easy to do, the inners are a bit more difficult since you have to remove the bellows to access them. I don't know the book time but you'd also need an alignment afterwards. You can get them close by counting the threads if you want to do it yourself.
I replaced my inners a few years ago. All I had to do was cut the OEM clamps off the bellows, slide the bellows off and unscrew the tie rod from the ends of the steering rack. Then I slid the bellows back in place and used regular worm drive hose clamps to replace the OE clamps.
The outer tie rod is easy too, loosen the nut but leave it on the threaded stud so the tie rod does not separate violently from the steering knuckle. Then smack around that part of the steering knuckle with a BFH, the tie rod will either fall out or you can easily tap it out of the hole in the knuckle. Then just use a wrench or good strong pliers on the end of the inner , crack the jam nut loose with a wrench, remove the nut and use a wrench on the tie rod to loosen it from the end of the inner.
You need to count the number of turns it takes to remove the old ones so you can turn the new ones the same amount of turns to get them back in about the same orientation to the rack and toe settings, but the truck will need a good alignment after replacing tie rods. I would not pay a shop to replace tie rods, it is a pretty easy DIY job plus a shop will mark up the price of the parts a lot. You also do not get a say in which parts a shop uses either, they may be good quality or they may be not so good.
Jimmy
The outer tie rod is easy too, loosen the nut but leave it on the threaded stud so the tie rod does not separate violently from the steering knuckle. Then smack around that part of the steering knuckle with a BFH, the tie rod will either fall out or you can easily tap it out of the hole in the knuckle. Then just use a wrench or good strong pliers on the end of the inner , crack the jam nut loose with a wrench, remove the nut and use a wrench on the tie rod to loosen it from the end of the inner.
You need to count the number of turns it takes to remove the old ones so you can turn the new ones the same amount of turns to get them back in about the same orientation to the rack and toe settings, but the truck will need a good alignment after replacing tie rods. I would not pay a shop to replace tie rods, it is a pretty easy DIY job plus a shop will mark up the price of the parts a lot. You also do not get a say in which parts a shop uses either, they may be good quality or they may be not so good.
Jimmy











