2000 Dakota 3,9l Erratic starting and dying, Odd codes, ECM???
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2000 Dakota 3,9l Erratic starting and dying, Odd codes, ECM???
Hello, New to the Forum I own a 1998 Dakota Sport Viper Blue regular cab 5,2 AT. My Dad owns a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L , Manual Transmission and is having serious problems with it and needed some help from you guys.
It started when he would come out of the store and it would crank to try to start but wouldn't fire. 1/2 hour later it would start it did it off and on. Then it started just dying while driving. You can hear the Fuel Pump Charging the lines when you turn the keys. We connected a psi gauge to fuel rail and psi is perfect. I replaced his Cam sensor and still had problems. So I replaced Cap, Rotor, New Spark Plug Wires, New spark plugs, and new coil. It drove perfect then it died cold and wouldn't start, got it started and it ran erratic then died cold again. Finally the check engine light came on so we made it to Autozone checked the codes and it said NO SIGNAL FROM CAMSHAFT SENSOR (which I just replaced) AND NO SIGNAL FROM CRANKSHAFT SENSOR.COULD THIS BE MY ECM???
It started when he would come out of the store and it would crank to try to start but wouldn't fire. 1/2 hour later it would start it did it off and on. Then it started just dying while driving. You can hear the Fuel Pump Charging the lines when you turn the keys. We connected a psi gauge to fuel rail and psi is perfect. I replaced his Cam sensor and still had problems. So I replaced Cap, Rotor, New Spark Plug Wires, New spark plugs, and new coil. It drove perfect then it died cold and wouldn't start, got it started and it ran erratic then died cold again. Finally the check engine light came on so we made it to Autozone checked the codes and it said NO SIGNAL FROM CAMSHAFT SENSOR (which I just replaced) AND NO SIGNAL FROM CRANKSHAFT SENSOR.COULD THIS BE MY ECM???
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To get to the crank sensor, remove left front wheel assy followed by removing the inner fender panel. You can see the sensor at the rear of the head almost on top of the bellhousing. Should be a 13mm and you will need a 12 point open/box end wrench to get at the top one. Remove both bolts, follow the wiring up to the right side middle rear of the bellhousing, behind the distributor. Seperate the two connectors. Carefuly pull up and remove the crank sensor nad check to see if there is Any frass or metal particles on it. If so I suggest you unbolt the inspection cover on the front of the bellhousing and used compressed air NOT 75+lbs to blow out all the particles. Then install a new "mopar" crank sensor.