...but ended up with 2 new "issues".[sm=icon_rofl.gif]

Actually took the dash apart and reinstalled teh heaer box with the new core in 2.5hrs befoer I took off to lunch. Got back and went to finish it, started putting the connectors back into the fuse block and went to the back to get some of the dash pieces and the freaking brakelights are on. Check all fuses to make sure theres no plug in teh wrong place (unlikely since every plug is different under there). Nada. Check the brake light switch/speed controller and teh freaking thing fell apart the second I touched it. Also found a broken pin in the plug for teh switch.

Other issue involves the heater vacuum lines. Either I pinched them somehow under the dash or they are just being a PITA since all it does is "defrost" on every setting but off.


I knew something wasnt gonna go right due to how easy things went before. FUnny how I dodnt need the manual to do this AGAIN. [sm=icon_rolf.gif] I'm glad this week is gonna be highs of 60 and lows of 40's here. Might have to take the bike to work. Then gonna have the radiator/engine power flushed before I hook the new core into the system. Theres a lot of electrolysis in this coolent even though its 1 yr old.

 

The reason for your brake lights staying on may be caused by the switch located near the pedal. Usually this switch works by staying depressed when the pedal is not. Then when you depress the pedal, the switch is released, but sometimes this switch needs adjustment in order for it to be depressed when the pedal is not. In other words, check to see that it is being fully depressed when the brake pedal is released. This may not be fixable by adjustment, sometimes the switch goes bad completely and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.

 

Yeah the switch was the culprit. The freakign thing fell apart the second I touched it.


Also found out where the exhaust leak I have is under the hood. THe pass bank collector bolts are EXTREMELY loose.

Well today gonna look to see why all I get is defrost.

 

on the big ram's there are check valves that go bad coming from the passenger side of the intake. they go into the firewall as you probably already know.

when you flush your cooling system, make sure that you use distilled water when using the 5 year coolant, then you wont have the sludge buildup in there... I found i had the same problem on my ram after a year with new fluid and tap water in there. did some research and found that you need distilled water with the 5 year stuff...

 

Gonna have it flushed by a shop with severe duty style cleaner and neutralizer. Just cant believe that the coolent developed electrolysis even after changing teh coolent every 2 yrs like teh manual said. Whats really disturbing is the local chrysler dealer never heard of anything like that.

 

check your grounds to the motor, I think you should have one on each head going to the firewall and one by the alternator, a bad ground may have contributed to your problem. check it out and let us know if you find anything.