Found a Pic of the bent Rad, Box came all bashed up in poor shape.


Any part that can take that kind of beating and still work is strong no steal clips needed the extra cooling area .25 is good though.





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You have the single core, Dakaz, I can tell by looking at it. Mine is the CSF dual core, and it's bent a little more than yours was right now.

 

I know its not dual core I wasn't looking for a dual core I've never needed it even in 115 Arizona heat. I wasn't sure how well it would cool going from my old style Rad to the newer 2000 and up Rad but it actually cools better from what I see around 25% better plus the efan is better than my old efan so that helps. That's why I made the change over mainly for the better air flow for my A/C condenser as the 2000 and up condensers were way better also.


What cooled down my engine was going to a 180 stat that made a big difference I did that 2 years ago. I may need to go back to a 195 stat now that I'm using the better Rad.


I'm not sure what stat he is running so maybe he should change it to a 180 see if that solves the heating problem plus make sure his fan clutch is working properly.


It is weird that he only overheats on the freeway not in city you would think it should be the opposite as you are getting great air flow at those speeds.

 

The CSF's single core is actually .38" thicker than Spectra. 1.63" vs 1.25".

Yeah, you're probably good with the Spectra in normal driving. Your thermostat will simply open more than mine to compensate (all other things being equal). However, If you chose to tow heavy... that might be another story. Let's just say the CSF covers you on a wider range of temps. I don't know what rad spec is in the trucks with no factory tow package, maybe just like the Spectra.


At highway speeds, the engine is working harder and producing more heat than at idle/low speeds. If a bad radiator is choking off flow, more airflow won't help much. At low speeds the flow might be just enough for the engine temp.

 

The only reason your engine would be working harder at freeway speeds is if youre towing something or your auto trans is not doing its job or a poor trans. Now with a stick you are in control and should not be revving high unless you’re rear diff was geared wrong so your RPM’s are high. My truck loves freeway driving the faster the better as its geared that way.

So depending on his trans it could be working harder or not usually not at freeway speeds if its working harder than maybe his engine is ready for an R/R low compression not running efficiently.


Now stop and go city driving like I was used to is very hard on engines I had over heating problems in California in way cooler temps with shorter driving. On trips to Idaho 6 hours almost nonstop she ran great up many small mountains with no overheating. Just a hint my 2.5 prefers 80 to 95 MPH her sweet spot smooth as glass her top speed was 110 with a good wind at her back.


So it depends on the trans and the rear gearing and or size of tires you have compared to your engine.


Even a 4 banger 2.5 like my Dakota can run very cool at freeway driving if you know how to shift properly now with an auto you are stuck with what you have good or bad.


That's one reason I prefer a stick not an auto more control.


It could be his rear gearing is not suited for freeway driving so he will be in the high RPM's

 

Okay, I have a question for you then. Which scenario causes a cold vehicle to warm up faster. Driving on a local road at low speeds, or quick a freeway run?

 

I think you miss the point


Ok in my Dakota the slow drive will ....... Why you ask less air flow past the rad think on that.

 

I don't think you truly believe that. There is a reason why it's often suggested that you warm your car before getting on the highway. Try measuring manifold temps with one of those infrared laser thermometers. I guarantee you that you will see higher temps coming off a wind-blown 90 mph freeway run, than a 40-50 mph with stop lights, etc


I got the point, but you did express confusion as to why he was overheating on the freeway.


Highway speeds, especially the 80-95 sweet spot you mentioned generates loads of heat at a constant RPM. A lot more than sitting in traffic or low speeds. Yes, the heat is mitigated by high airflow, but in order for the airflow to be effective, you also need robust coolant flow. If a faulty radiator is restricting the flow, you will overheat, similar to a thermostat being stuck closed.


Thanks for the debate... the forum has been kinda dead lately. Maybe we can get some of the others to jump in. LOL

 

You back east coast people do things diff than us west coast people that's for sure plus I'm big big city well not so much now in AZ but almost as bad.

You deal with cold and snow we deal with heat and dust with some cold depending on were in the west you are.

I started in small town USA population under 2K agricultural area then zoom off to the BIG city at 10 and major change.


My mindset is BIG city its glued in solid

 

last thing I did to my truck was put in a catalytic converterI purchased the walker catalytic converter could this also make it overheated highway speeds