No, I can't get the fan to come on at all. I did read on another forum that fuse 9 in the cab mounted junction box was instrumental but I checked and they look fine, however, I didn't check it with a meter. There was also some in-depth testing procedures on that forum that I will try to replicate, but, unless I have a broken wire, (open circuit), I dunno. Stumped for now.

 

Is this the relay you checked?

from the 2003 service manual

 

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPs

 

No, mine is apparently a 2002 according to the sticker in the drivers side door, but, is a 2003 on the title, dunno why, ain't gonna worry about it now, LOL. Anyway, the relay is next to the ASD relay closest to the fender and to the cowl, I don't know how to post a pic of it. I swapped the ASD relay for the cooling fan relay, no change.

 

Either you are testing things wrong or the PCM is fouled up concerning the fan.


Does the A/C work you have never answered that?


Also what do you consider HOT regarding the cooling fluid.


Have you personally seen this Hot condition or only what your son is telling you because I'm beginning to question what you are telling us.


Something is not adding up

 

Yes the A/C works, and, yes, i've seen it hot, spitting water out the overflow. I guess there is the possibility that I am testing wrong, but, why would you question what I'm telling you, that makes no sense to me. I appreciate your help, and, I'm not doing this for a lark.

 

Losing coolant out the overflow line could just be a worn out or low quality rad cap.


I have seen a number of very low quality rad caps these last few years.


Ok but does the dash temp gauge show it as hot or are you just assuming its hot because its pumping out coolant also what psi is the rad cap16,20?


Stant rad caps are still the best even though they are made in China

 

Here's what I'm gonna do. Tomorrow is the kids day off, so, both cars will be home. I'm gonna grab him and take the Dakota on an extended drive, with a few gallons of water. we will see what we will see. Things I know for sure, 1) the A/C works fine, 2) the e-fan never comes on, 3) out of the car with 12V applied, the fan works fine, 4) there is a possibility that my testing measures are suspect, ( I don't admit to that, but, will concede that it may be a possibility). I have been wrong before, and, I have no problem asking for help, that's the reason I'm here. So, I'll get back to you guys after the test drive tomorrow. Thanks Also, just for grins, on the way out I will buy a new safety release cap at my local parts place. The one on it now is a 20lb cap possibly OEM, I would have to take a closer look. Now, initially how this all started was the kid was on the way home in the middle of the night from work. We live rurally, and as he made the turn for the last 6 mile stretch home the gauge pegged. He pulled over, called me, I towed him home. Inspection revealed that the top radiator hose on the engine side of the cap had separated. I repaired the hose with a new clamp figuring that was that. How unsuspecting an naive I was. That began my journey down this never ending rabbit hole. what I have done. 1)reversed flushed radiator, 2) replaced thermostat, 3) checked fuses and relays, both at the PDC, and, the in cab junction block, (and, as mentioned, possibly inaccurately), 4) did a radiator pressure test to eliminate the possibility of bad head gaskets, cracked block, ect. 5) removed e-fan, bench tested, works fine.

 

Well you have a 100% real problem that fan should kick on as you turn on the A/C its also a backup cooling fan when the fluid temps hit 210 and over. The rad cap should not be pumping out coolant unless it overheats or is releasing at a lower PSI than it should. I tested my new electric rad fan by just letting it idle till it kicked in at the 210 mark as the 2.5 engine doesn't have any mechanical fan only the electric fan. The fact that it stays cool at idle is strange but overheats driving it tells me a plugged rad or bad water pump as 45 mph and up should keep your engine cool unless you are hauling a heavy load.


The 3.9 should be equipped with a mechanical or clutch fan from the factory if missing someone removed it.


I'm wondering if your electric fan is not an OEM fan and its connected differently so that's why its not working like it should.


A few pictures would tell us much

 

Yep, I've got a brand new water pump sitting on the bench waiting to be installed, but got sidetracked by the e-fan not working when the A/C is on, or ever, really. I don't know how to tell if the e-fan is OEM or not, it did plug directly into the dodge PIA connect or though, with no visable splices, so, I would assume it was factory, even though missing bolts here and there show someone was there before me, possibly trying to repair the same problem I have now. Even though I have driven the truck for 2 years with no problems. Yes, I do have the mechanical clutch fan as well, it seems to be working properly, I.E. there is resistance when you turn it by hand cold, however, I have not tried to turn it manually after a drive that heats, or, overheats the engine. I will try that tomorrow after the test drive. My suspicions are the e-fan has never worked since I got the truck because the A/C would lack when stopped, which I learned on here was due to the e-fan not working. In fact, I never knew I had an e-fan until coming here. So, the e-fan may, or, may not have anything to do with the problem I have now. like I say, it has become a quagmire. I just thought I would fix the e-fan before moving on, but, it seems that the e-fan prob is difficult, Dunno