When my stepson's new-to-him 1999 Taurus was overheating, we finally pulled the non-leaking water pump, and discovered that a previous owner hadn't kept up on the coolant.

We had about 1/2 of one of the seven vanes still on the pump.

Yes, it was pumping 1/14th of what it should ...

You may have the same problem with your water pump. But I gather you got good flow visible through the radiator cap opening when the thermostat opened?

RwP

 

Yeah Ralph, I got good flow, I think. I also have a new water pump on the bench just in case. I just don't think that's what it is. But boy, I could be wrong. It will idle for hours no problem. My kid takes it on the highway it overheats. Dunno, just hacking away at the easiest stuff to the harder stuff. Like I say, just found out the electric fan doesn't work, but, everyone say that's not the prob, dunno, gonna get that going and move on from there. I want it back to stock specs. That's all I want. Thanks again

 

Try removing the electric fan and doing a short highway run, see if it keeps heating up the same way, in case the problem is that the dead electric fan is blocking too much airflow to the radiator.

Also, find someplace they do the "exhaust chemicals" test, and make sure there's no exhaust in the cooling system.

How's the exhaust system? If it's partially plugged, you may not notice the reduction in power, but the fact that the motor can't get rid of the hot exhaust may be making it stay hot in the front.

I'm just tossing things out there - the actual problem is probably NOT any of these *grins*

RwP

 

Well, there are guys all over the forums that say the don't even need the clutch fan, just run the electric one, so,I think if I get the e-fan going I'm much closer to solving the problem. We will see.

 

Earlier models did not have an electric fan. It primarily helps the a/c performance.

You may not need a clutch fan - depending upon where you live and what you're doing with the truck. Highway driving should move enough air to keep the temps down. City driving or pulling a heavy load at slow speeds and you'll need help.

 

Well, I did the hotwire from 12V to the 87 terminal on the removed relay, no fan action, couldn't find a fuse in the in cab fuse block for the radiator fan. both relay and 40AMP fuse in the PDC were good. So, now I'm removing the electric fan to see if it will power up outside the vehicle, wish me luck.

 

Good news is the efan as they are known are usually cheap depending on where you buy it rockauto its around $90.

But I think what 00DakDan was saying is that fan only turns on with either the A/C kicked on or your engine temp hits about 210.

So a good test is turn on the A/C it should kick on if your A/C is working correct that is.

This also depends on your water temp sensor that's the trigger you could say so replacing that may be a good Idea just to be sure they are cheap $10 to $20.

 

How do you remove the connector from the e-fan. It's got me bamboozled. I'm guessing the connection right at the fan motor is not the one i'm looking for. Is there a connect up stream from there hidden by rad stuff? Yeah, I found it under the lower rad shroud,Hebus, what a PIA.

 

So, fan out on the bench applied 12V, works great, hmmmm. Both relay and 40A fuse in PDC check good. So, where am I, water temp sensor, even though my temp gauge reads seemingly correct. What do you say guys?

 

Ok do you have A/C?


If so will that fan kick on if the A/C is turned on?