Ok, here we go again. New issue. I fixed the evap check engine errors, I replaced the oxygen sensor. I got the Instrument cluster working with you fine folks helping. Now I have this check engine issue. I ran a cataclean by Mr. Gasket through it and I followed the instructions. I then reset the check engine by pulling the ground cable. I ran the truck for about 20 miles with no problem. Then, as I was pulling out on the highway It felt like The truck had lost power. If felt like it was only running on 4 cylinders, it's a 6. Then it went back to all cylinders and ran fine back home, except the check engine light was back on. When I got home, I checked the code and P0432 is what came up. Tomorrow I'm going to check the distributor, rotor button, and plugs to see how bad they are. I read somewhere that a tune up would help the gas/air ratio and that would help the Cat. The previous owner assured me that all that stuff was done. We'll see..
I really don't want to change the cat if it is not the problem. One other thing, the truck does run a little rough. This Sunday I will have truck 3 weeks. What else can go wrong? Hmm?
Thanks, for the help folks. Oh yea, another issue for another thread. Dave

 

Since no one seems to have a suggestion for my problem yet, I will follow up with what I have done so far. This is for future reference for folks doing a search. I did replace the distributor cap and rotor. They were in pretty bad shape. I checked the plugs, they were OK, but needed to be reset. I will tell you this the cataclean does a great job, the plugs were almost pristine clean. I did a reset on the check engine error, and started the engine. It was running smooth cold. I took the truck out to warm it up to temperature. At temperature, the engine was running rough, not much, just a little, not as bad as it was. I haven't ran the truck enough to find out if the code will show up again. We will see. Now, does anyone know what would still cause the engine still run a little rough at idle? Oh yea, if I rev it up and let off the gas quickly it will almost want to quit before going back to a idle.
Dave

 

How many miles on the truck? Have the plug wires been replaced too, and if so are they a good brand and still in good shape? You may want to remove the throttle body, take the IAC, MAP and TPS sensors off it and clean it up with spray throttle body cleaner and a shop rag. Also clean the black crusty junk off the pintle end of the IAC and clean the IAC orifice with a q-tip and TB cleaner. Do not move the IAC shaft in and out when cleaning, that will damage the stepper motor. Lube the IAC o-ring with a little clean motor oil before you put it back in. Lube all the springs and pivot points on the TB with spray silicone and use a new TB gasket when reinstalling the TB.

You could have a bad IAC causing the rough idle or it could also be the TPS is out of specs. Use a voltmeter to check the TPS, with the engine off but key in run position probe the center wire on the plug at the TPS. With the throttle plate closed you should have about .5 to .75 volts on the center wire. Then slowly open the throttle by hand. The voltage on the center wire should slowly and steadily increase to 4.5 to a maximum of 5 volts when you get the throttle wide open. If the voltage is different or is erratic as the throttle is opened the TPS should be replaced.

I am no expert but those are the first few things I would check.

Jimmy

 

Ok, I checked TPS. Voltage was .6 closed, and 4.02 at fully open.
I also checked resistance. .309 closed, and .501 fully open.
I pulled the throttle body. Man, talk about being dirty! I cleaned it and reinstalled. I went for a short test drive and I had more power and a lot smoother acceleration. The engine after warm-up is still a tiny bit rough, just enough to be seen and not felt. It could be is because it has 168,000 on it. I will be using it today around town, so I guess we'll see if the check engine light comes back on. I let you know if the light stays out.
Dave

 

The Check engine light is not coming on, but it's Still rough at idle. Also, I had a hesitation on acceleration once or twice. Do you think I should replace The TPS ?

 

4 volts is on the very low side of acceptable voltage for the TPS. If you have access to a scan tool that reads live data you could check the TPS voltage while driving. I can't say for sure but if it were my truck I would swap out the TPS anyway. Hesitation or delayed acceleration is definitely one of the symptoms of bad TPS, and so is the engine stalling out, whether you are idling or driving. A new TPS is cheap enough to buy and try it. You can get the cheaper one for around $30.00 or a better quality like BWD for about $40.00. They probably cost even less online but who knows what the shipping cost would be. You can also check out Advance Auto Parts and use one of their online discounts, pay online and pick it up at the store. You will need to drive the truck maybe 10 miles or so to let the PCM learn the signal from the new TPS.

Jimmy

 

Went to the parts store this morning to pick up a tps sensor. Guess what? Check engine on again! Codes P0420 and P0432. I'm going to change to tps and check for vaccum leaks, but at this point, I'm not sure where to look. Ahhh well, life goes on, I may junk the truck I'm so disgusted.

 

Those are both catalytic convertor failure codes. 0432 is for the right bank cat. If it were my truck I would look at replacing the precat on the right side. You may even find an exhaust shop that can weld in a universal cat for a good price but I have no idea how a universal cat would perform. When my own truck threw a p0420 code a couple years ago I ordered a complete y-pipe assembly from Eastern Catalytic through Rock Auto Parts. It cost me about $350 shipped and I got a good local independent garage to put it in for $190.00. I am not set up at home to do exhaust work and besides that exhaust is best left up to a professional shop with all the right tools, torches and a lift to do the job right. Exhaust work is dirty and aggravating.

I would still go on and replace the TPS. As long as you do not have emissions or state inspections you can drive with a bad cat but mpg and performance may get worse. Plus you want the cel to be turned off so it can alert you to any future problems. Some have even gutted their cats but I believe that causes many more problems than it corrects. If you got the truck for a good price and it is in good shape otherwise, it might be worth it to fix the cat and keep the truck. Dakotas are great trucks and usually do not have a lot of problems.

Jimmy

 

I installed the TPS. At the same time I checked for vacuum problems. I found 2. The hose on the throttle body was so lose I had to put a clamp on it. The other was on the passenger side on the plenum. There was a connection that was to being used that had a vacuum cover type plug to seal it off, it was loose to. You could see oil around where it was not a good seal, so I clamped that off to. I did take it for short run to see if the check engine light would come back on . So far so good.
I don't know if I should start another thread fir this but here goes. I broke the parking brake adjustment under the cab. It seems dodge doesn't carry them anymore. Anyone Know where I can find one, or do I have to weld this one back up?

 

All day! all around town. No Problems. 80 miles. Just when I was feeling sure I had it licked, back again. p0420 and p0432 on the way home. Engine is rough at idle again while at operating temperature. Does anyone have a vacuum schematic I could look at? I really think this is coming from a vacuum problem and that is kicking the P 0432 code. It has plenty of power, And no hesitation on accelerating or no surging at speed. I did start to run the Air conditioning this afternoon.