I think I saw it here somewhere, but can't find it now. I have a 2001, 4.7l, 2-wheel drive, and need to get the oil pan off. Unbolted the engine mounts from frame, took bolts out of transmission bracket, unbolted exhaust, picked up the engine probably 3" at least. I still could not get enough clearance. So, I pulled the intake manifold as per the Haynes manual and created a little more separation. Still no go. Previously reading other posts online before I started it should not have been this hard, so I thought.

I can't seem to raise the engine anymore than I have, as it is hitting the firewall. At this point i probably should have just pulled the whole engine. If there are any words of wisdom out there, I'd be most appreciative. I hoping it's something stupid I missed. Thanks.

 

There are a lot of steps and I'm not sure what your Haynes manual has. These are from the '01 FSM.

REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure applies to both the 4X2 and 4X4 vehicles, steps that apply to the 4X4 vehicle only, are identified.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative and positive cables.
(2) Remove the battery and the battery tray.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust manifolds.
(5) 4X4 vehicles Disconnect axle vent tube from left side engine mount.
(6) Remove the through bolt retaining nut and bolt from both the left and right side engine mounts.
(7) 4X4 vehicles Remove locknut from left and right side engine mount brackets.
(8) Disconnect two ground straps from the lower left hand side and one ground strap from the lower right hand side of the engine.
(9) Disconnect crankshaft position sensor.
NOTE: The following step applies to 4X4 vehicles equipped with automatic transmission only.
(10) 4X4 vehicles Remove the axle isolator bracket from the engine, transmission and the axle.
(11) Remove structural cover.
(12) Remove starter.
(13) Drain cooling system.
(14) Remove torque converter bolts (Automatic Transmission Only).
(15) Remove transmission to engine mounting bolts.
(16) Disconnect the engine block heater power cable from the block heater, if equipped.
(17) Lower vehicle.
(18) Remove throttle body resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(19) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(20) Disconnect tube from both the left and right side crankcase breathers. Remove breathers
(21) Discharge A/C system.
(22) Remove A/C compressor
(23) Remove shroud, fan assembly and accessory drive belt.
(24) Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at the radiator.
(25) Disconnect radiator upper and lower hoses.
(26) Remove radiator, A/C condenser and transmission oil cooler.
(27) Remove generator.
(28) Disconnect the two heater hoses from the timing chain cover and heater core.
(29) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes from the intake manifold.
(30) Disconnect engine harness at the following points :
† Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor (Fig. 7)
† Fuel Injectors
† Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
† Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
† Engine Oil Pressure Switch
† Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
† Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) Sensor
† Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
† Coil Over Plugs
(31) Disconnect the vacuum lines at the throttle body and intake manifold.
(32) Release fuel rail pressure then disconnect the fuel supply quick connect fitting at the fuel rail.
(33) Remove power steering pump and position out of the way.
(34) Install Special Tools 8400 Lifting Studs, into the cylinder heads.
(35) Install Engine Lifting Fixture Special Tool 8347 following these steps.
† Holding the lifting fixture at a slight angle, slide the large bore in the front plate over the hex portion of the lifting stud.
† Position the two remaining fixture arms onto the two Special Tools 8400 Lifting Studs, in the cylinder heads.
† Pull foward and upward on the lifting fixture so that the lifting stud rest in the slotted area below the large bore.
† Secure the lifting fixture to the three studs using three 7/16 – 14 N/C locknuts.
† Make sure the lifting loop in the lifting fixture is in the last hole (closest to the throttle body) to minimize the angle of engine during removal.
(36) Disconnect body ground strap at the right side cowl.
(37) Disconnect body ground strap at the left side cowl.
NOTE: It will be necessary to support the transmission in order to remove the engine.
(38) Position a suitable jack under the transmission.
(39) Remove engine from the vehicle.

 

Last step is..... "(39) Remove engine from the vehicle. "

Hope I never have to do this, although I would like to see what it looks like in there.

 

Drain all the oil then stick a snake camera inside and look around engine cold yes.


It should be doable.

 

Thanks guys. I probably have 98% of the list accomplished just by trying to be lazy and not pull the engine totally. This is one of those jobs where things just keep accumulating. Started with a tick in the topend, thought it was the valve adjusters, found the timing chain loose, decided to change the oil pump and water pump since I was right there. Now it looks like I might as well suck it up and pull the engine and just rebuild the whole thing.

Unless I misread something, I really thought it would be easier to get the oil pan out w/o pulling engine. Live and learn. Since it has 295K on this engine, probably wouldn't hurt to freshen the whole thing. Yes I know 295K is a lot, but I love my Dakota and it has never ever failed me. No reason to tear into it until this tick (timing chain) came along. Why don't you follow the recommended service schedule, you say? I blame my upbringing on a farm where we ran it till it puked. Thanks.

 

Good idea, thanks.

I thought it would be easier too. Getting about 300K out of a motor is nothing to sniff at, so you did good if you ask me. How was your overall maintenance, oil change, oil type, etc? Also, how is your tranny?

I'm right behind you mileage-wise, BTW. I have no intention of pulling anything apart, unless I come across a problem, like you did. The most I get is the cold start rattle which goes away in seconds.

 

I was pretty religious about changing the oil, always using full synthetic. I don't seem to see any of the slug problems others write about, though I still have not looked in the bottom of the oil pan. Everywhere else looks really clean.

Haven't had any transmission problems. Had the filter changed a couple times, and towed quite a bit with a couple of jobs. Fingers crossed.

The radiator is leaking, so that will get replaced as things go back together. I do have a leak from the power steering rack. There is a plastic plug on the bottom front, which I think my son broke hopping a curb. Need to figure out if I can replace that before I can start it, as it started leaking like crazy before I laid up the truck for the ticking noise. That will be a learning experience trying not to replace the whole rack just for this plastic piece..