I am receiving the new 4.7 engine at the shop tomorrow and I am not sure if any instructions or manufacturing procedures will be included with the engine... if so, I'll post them up... but for now, thought I'd jump ahead and get some knowledge under my belt before tackling the truck for a few days.
I know the topic of breaking in an engine is the equivalent of what is the best oil to use or who's the best quarterback of all time etc... just wondering if any of you have had experience with Royal Purple Break-in Oil or similar for our trucks?
I planned to use conventional oil for the first 800km (roughly 500 miles), driving in and around town in varying degrees of rpms... not gunning it, and a few spirited drives down the highway a couple times.
Post 800km, a new oil filter and switch to synthetic for a total of 1000km before the next change.
I was going to prime the oil pump by essentially pulling the fuel pump relay, coils and turning the engine over a few times... can't seem to find any info on priming the pump.. and finally, pouring oil into the filter before start ups.
Any sage advice would be welcomed.
Cheers,
Parker
I know the topic of breaking in an engine is the equivalent of what is the best oil to use or who's the best quarterback of all time etc... just wondering if any of you have had experience with Royal Purple Break-in Oil or similar for our trucks?
I planned to use conventional oil for the first 800km (roughly 500 miles), driving in and around town in varying degrees of rpms... not gunning it, and a few spirited drives down the highway a couple times.
Post 800km, a new oil filter and switch to synthetic for a total of 1000km before the next change.
I was going to prime the oil pump by essentially pulling the fuel pump relay, coils and turning the engine over a few times... can't seem to find any info on priming the pump.. and finally, pouring oil into the filter before start ups.
Any sage advice would be welcomed.
Cheers,
Parker
We run Lucas Racing break-in oil for 15 minutes at idle and 2 runs at the track then change out to Lucas synthetic racing oil, after each annual rebuild/service. We run a rebuildable oil filter and clean it after warm-up and each pass to make sure there's no metal present.
What we do is fill the filter with oil, take the distributor out, and spin the oil pump with a 110V electric drill to build 35 PSI of oil pressure with the engine off.
At the track, we spin it over to 10 PSI of oil pressure (our sensor is at the top of the engine) before turning the MSD on. We also start it with all crankcase vacuum removed, so that the piston rings can seat naturally through the warm-up heat cycle, before hooking up the vacuum pump (charges the crankcase at 15 inches of vacuum).
That option doesn't exist on a 4.7, so my suggestion would be to pop the valve covers off, wet down the cams and followers, put covers back on, pull the fuel pump relay and coil wires, and spin it over for 15 seconds. Hook everything up, and let idle for 10-15 minutes to break the rings in. Disconnect any PCV valves or other crankcase evacuation systems for this warmup.
You can also cut the oil filter open to see what is in it. Some material is normal from the bearings breaking in, but the amount should go down as things get worn in. I would say check it after the initial idle warm-up, again when you take the break-in oil out, then at 500, 1000, 2000, 3000 miles. By 3,000 the filter should be clean.
What we do is fill the filter with oil, take the distributor out, and spin the oil pump with a 110V electric drill to build 35 PSI of oil pressure with the engine off.
At the track, we spin it over to 10 PSI of oil pressure (our sensor is at the top of the engine) before turning the MSD on. We also start it with all crankcase vacuum removed, so that the piston rings can seat naturally through the warm-up heat cycle, before hooking up the vacuum pump (charges the crankcase at 15 inches of vacuum).
That option doesn't exist on a 4.7, so my suggestion would be to pop the valve covers off, wet down the cams and followers, put covers back on, pull the fuel pump relay and coil wires, and spin it over for 15 seconds. Hook everything up, and let idle for 10-15 minutes to break the rings in. Disconnect any PCV valves or other crankcase evacuation systems for this warmup.
You can also cut the oil filter open to see what is in it. Some material is normal from the bearings breaking in, but the amount should go down as things get worn in. I would say check it after the initial idle warm-up, again when you take the break-in oil out, then at 500, 1000, 2000, 3000 miles. By 3,000 the filter should be clean.
