Coolant issue/ question
#11
SCT?
I'll have to see why it's coming on at start up .
Other scanner in enhanced mode did speak of Coolant temp circuit having errors(no codes) so I'll look at that an retest including relay an breakers.
Thanks
That's 1 of 8 error messages on the ECT circuit in enhanced mode. No DTCs
Last edited by hidden1; 01-08-2017 at 09:22 PM.
#12
#13
I tested the wires to CTS an got 5.1 or 5.2--normal is 5
The ground seemed ok on continuity test to large harness at fuse/relay box.
After restart I had CEL an saw code p0118.
--is this because of reading of 5.1 or 5.2 an not 5 volt?
Or from all the testing of wiring?
I reset restart engine
No code so far
I will double check harness again .
Also saw how fan motor is on drivebelt an blowing a high amount on engine at start up..
Any info is appreciated
Last edited by hidden1; 01-09-2017 at 07:26 PM.
#14
#17
#18
no it's not. the gauge is a ranging type, as are all of the gauges except tach and speedometer (which are somewhat slow and inaccurate at times). I forget the ranges and what positions the water temp is though. I ignore it and only use the OBDII display
#19
#20
If it's a 2 wire, and you're getting 5 volts across it, i don't think that is right. You should have more like 2.5 volts across it, if it's the kind of sensor I think it is.
If you have a multi-meter, unplug the coolant sensor with the engine cold, and take a resistance reading across the sensor. I'm just going to throw a guess out: 600 ohms cold. Plug it back in, let the engine warm up (ideally, let thermostat open). Unplug sensor and re-test. It should either be in the thousands of ohms range, or down around 100 ohms.
Theory being that it should move a very significant amount of ohms with temperature change. I dont know which direction.
If you have a multi-meter, unplug the coolant sensor with the engine cold, and take a resistance reading across the sensor. I'm just going to throw a guess out: 600 ohms cold. Plug it back in, let the engine warm up (ideally, let thermostat open). Unplug sensor and re-test. It should either be in the thousands of ohms range, or down around 100 ohms.
Theory being that it should move a very significant amount of ohms with temperature change. I dont know which direction.