Coolant issue/ question
SCT?
I'll have to see why it's coming on at start up .
Other scanner in enhanced mode did speak of Coolant temp circuit having errors(no codes) so I'll look at that an retest including relay an breakers.
Thanks
That's 1 of 8 error messages on the ECT circuit in enhanced mode. No DTCs
Last edited by hidden1; Jan 8, 2017 at 09:22 PM.
Check the coolant temp sensor wires they may have a brake in them causing the intermittent problem My wires had that problem had to fix the wires.
They usually get a brake at the sensor connector
They usually get a brake at the sensor connector
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Jan 9, 2017 at 04:43 AM.
I tested the wires to CTS an got 5.1 or 5.2--normal is 5
The ground seemed ok on continuity test to large harness at fuse/relay box.
After restart I had CEL an saw code p0118.
--is this because of reading of 5.1 or 5.2 an not 5 volt?
Or from all the testing of wiring?
I reset restart engine
No code so far
I will double check harness again .
Also saw how fan motor is on drivebelt an blowing a high amount on engine at start up..
Any info is appreciated
Last edited by hidden1; Jan 9, 2017 at 07:26 PM.
the circuit-high code is from having the sensor unplugged with the key on. Unhook the battery to reset the PCM, or just clear the code in your scanner tool. 5.2 volts is okay, there's usually a 10% tolerance on signal lines. What voltage are you getting from the signal wire?
Yes mine are both 2 wire.
I'm guessing the wire to temp guage in cluster is coming from pcm .Ill look at wiring diagtam.
Temp reads in run mode an idle highest is 192 an averaging 188 but guage stays at 33 % which is odd.
I'm guessing the wire to temp guage in cluster is coming from pcm .Ill look at wiring diagtam.
Temp reads in run mode an idle highest is 192 an averaging 188 but guage stays at 33 % which is odd.
Last edited by hidden1; Jan 11, 2017 at 09:09 AM.
no it's not. the gauge is a ranging type, as are all of the gauges except tach and speedometer (which are somewhat slow and inaccurate at times). I forget the ranges and what positions the water temp is though. I ignore it and only use the OBDII display
If it's a 2 wire, and you're getting 5 volts across it, i don't think that is right. You should have more like 2.5 volts across it, if it's the kind of sensor I think it is.
If you have a multi-meter, unplug the coolant sensor with the engine cold, and take a resistance reading across the sensor. I'm just going to throw a guess out: 600 ohms cold. Plug it back in, let the engine warm up (ideally, let thermostat open). Unplug sensor and re-test. It should either be in the thousands of ohms range, or down around 100 ohms.
Theory being that it should move a very significant amount of ohms with temperature change. I dont know which direction.
If you have a multi-meter, unplug the coolant sensor with the engine cold, and take a resistance reading across the sensor. I'm just going to throw a guess out: 600 ohms cold. Plug it back in, let the engine warm up (ideally, let thermostat open). Unplug sensor and re-test. It should either be in the thousands of ohms range, or down around 100 ohms.
Theory being that it should move a very significant amount of ohms with temperature change. I dont know which direction.










