My old Dak began to have starting problems, would only start after turning the ignition key several times.
It got worse until it finally would not respond to the ignition key at all. Although, I could hear the solenoid click rather weakly sometimes.

The battery cables were old an looked to be in sorry condition so I removed them, also removing the starter and solenoid.

So, up to this point I have checked:
1.
Voltage drops and resistance from battery to cable terminals to cable ends.

Good connection to battery and good working cables in spite of how bad they look.
Good wire from connector to solenoid.
Good contacts to starter and solenoid.
Good ground from battery to engine.

2.
Starter and solenoid appear to operate as they should when energized while clamped in a vise.

3.
There are 10 ea. Siemens 4671168C 72472M Relays in the PCM, one of which is the starter relay. All of these relays have 55 +/- 1.0 ohms resistance between terminals 85 and 86. Per the shop manual that resistance should be 75 +/- 5. I find it hard to believe that they are all bad while everything but the starter works as it should.

4.
After reconnecting the cables to the battery and the PCM, but still free from the starter and solenoid, when the key is turned to start no voltage shows at the end of the solenoid wire.


I'm down to thinking that the problem is possibly the ignition switch, or the relay, or the wiring through the ignition switch and relay to the solenoid wire connector.

I do not have the security torx bits to remove the switch and it will take at least a week to get them here from Amazon, probably longer.

So, my question:

Any suggestions on how to check the switch in place, relay operation, the wiring that's part of this section of the circuit, and any other possibilities that might be the cause of this problem?

EDIT:
I just found the section in the shop manual that tells how to check the ignition switch in place.
It's dark out now. I'll probably check it out tomorrow afer it lightens up.

 

FYI---In case you have a harbor freight near you, the security torx are available there. The ignition switch removes fairly easily and comes apart. I cleaned mine up and checked it when I was having an issue. How about your starter, if you had it out on the bench, did you check the commutator and brushes? I successfully cleaned mine up and it lasted another year before I replaced it. It may run fine on the bench but will fail under any type of load if brush connections are faulty. Being you have no voltage at the solonoid one would assume a relay to be bad. I doubt the ignition switch fail but anything is possible. The reason I say this is that it's a hefty switch and mine has shown little wear with several hundred thousand miles other then the lubricant being a little dry. Maybe disconnect the starter and listen for a faint click of the starter relay. From what I remember a lot of the relays are interchangeable. Good Luck!

 

Didn't read most of it

But can you hear your fuel pump kick in?

 

There might be one on Oahu, but there is not one here on Big Island.
A small set is available in Hilo at O'Reily's. But, they want $35 to $40 for it. I certainly don't want to pay that much for something I may only use one time. And, it's a 50 mile round trip with no Interstates to do it on.

As soon as I get a $49 minimum order together, I'll get the large 100 piece security driver bit set for $12 ordered.



Fuel is not the problem. Getting the engine to turn over is.
I'm in my mid 70's and my hearing is fading fast.
That's probably why I don't hear it.
Last night I didn't hear a cat fight on our back lanai that woke M'Lady up. She had to come out and tell me it was going on.
One of the benefits of working in loud noise areas and listening to loud rock and country music for many, many years.

I'll be going out to check the switch soon. I'll report on what happens afterward.

 

When you turn the key on [engine off] after sitting for an hour or two, you should hear the fuel pump run for 5 seconds to prime the fuel rail. That verifies that the "run" position of the ignition switch is functioning.

 

OK, I think I've got it!

Per the manual, Ignition Switch Test

Terminals 1 and 7 should have no continuity in the Run position - CHECK!
Terminals 1 and 7 should have continuity in the start position - NO Continuity.

Terminal 1 connects to the RED incoming power wire.
Terminal 7 connects to the DB/Y wire going to the relay coil terminal 86 to activate the relay.
No power is going to the relay.

I have ordered the switch and security bit set along with a machete.
As screwy as Amazon is, it will probably take 2 weeks or more for them to arrive although they say 7 to 9 days.

@magnethead

I know the run position is OK because all the dash start up lights come on. Everything is functional except the start position.
Usually when an ignition switch goes bad you can feel that it isn't working right. It usually catches or jambs, at least the older ones from the '50s and '60s did.
This one still feels like it's working smoothly.
That's technology making it harder for you to figure out what's wrong.

 

OK!
Just to close this thread out:

the new ignition switch finally arrived over a week after the machete and security bits did.
I even harvested a bunch of bananas with the machete before the switch arrived.
I installed it today and it starts as it should.
problem seems to be fixed.
Thanks for your input guys.