So my A/C was dead..no clutch activity. Check the pressure way over charged..drained some Freon still no go. Jumped the compressor nothing. So I worked on replacing the compressor, dryer and condenser. Recharged still nothing and low pressure off the charts. Theory was my orifice filter was leaking so high pressure was bleeding through to low side. So I brought a new orifice tube and filter..(by the way all from Rock auto best price can't say how long the stuff will last but we'll see,) So when I took the old orifice tube assembly out this is what I found ,it had been covered up by a plastic wrap, see pics. Looks like someone cracked/broke it and tried to patch, solder, glue?? it back together!! P.O.'s suck!

Anyway in the process of recharging now will let you know that goes with all new parts except the evap core in the dash.

By the way 98dakazwas very helpful in my first attempt to recharge the system and it was his theory about the filter letting too much pressure by look like he was correct given the state of the tube.!!

 

i had my oriface fail and that was slightly amusing to see when everything shut off in emergency OMG mode,

 

So trying to test for holding vacuum and it seems to be losing vacuum about a pound in an hour..so now what..I have double checked all the connections I touched both ends of the orifice tube and the center compression joint and the port for the electrical connection. All seemed tight. all have new o rings..So if it doesn't hold vacuum what can I do to find the leak??

 

That covering is normal that is the way they look its insulation for the orifice tube valve so it doesn’t freeze up.

As for the leak check the orifice tube o-ring they get forgotten or not installed.

Good luck

 

Which o ring the fire wall end had three o rings they were there, the condenser end had one too, fairly sure the compression joint had one too but I'll double check it.

So again is there any way to find a leak w/o charging the system.

 

well, redid all the connections on the orifice tube-and it seemed to fix the leak. So I fired her up and started to charge the system..but the compressor never kicked on the low side was at 100 and high at 50..w2hich says low compressor function which..yeah it never turned on..I put about 20oz. of 134a in it(it takes 24 oz.) and stopped..SOOOO what could cause the compressor not to kick on..besides lack of 134??? I did plug and unplug the one electrical connector on the orifice tube it clicked into place seems tight. I did not check power to the compressor..I'll do that tomorrow. I thought about hot wiring the compressor direct from the battery to see if that would fix my pressure issues when it kicks on..but don't know if that would cause more problems or not to test it that way.....Suggestions???

 

I want to test two circuits the first one is the plug that the a/c compressor plugs into..do I just push a lead in to the connector and ground the other end of the test light..and then "turn on" the a/c from the dash? If the light comes on the switch is connected and working..right?? Just not sure if that's the way top hook it up.

Second is the sensor on the orifice tube it has three pins/holes how do I jump it so the system thinks everything is OK in the a/c system. I know if this sensor is not reading what it wants the compressor won't kick on.

I am not good with electrical stuff..so go easy on me. I am trying to figure out why my compressor won't turn on..I have new compressor, dryer and condenser system is charged to about 20 oz. (max. is 24 per spec_)a/c light on the dash comes on, vent fan is running..but no joy with the compressor. I did hot wire the compressor once and it kicked on just let it run for a few seconds.

Before I pull the dash apart or replace the sensor on the orifice tube I want to see if I can narrow down the issue.

 

What year? The systems vary a bit by year.

When you turn on the switch, you are actually telling the PCM to engage the a/c compressor. Based on inputs it cycles it on/off as needed.

Yes, you can connect a test light to the clutch to see if you are getting 12 volts.

Have you checked pressures? Too low/high a pressure and the system will not engage the compressor. You may need to jump the compressor to test the system pressures if it won't engage.

I'd start with the pressures first then go on from there.

 

2002 WITH 2.4 LITER ENGINE When I tried to charge the system the low was 100 and high 50..but the compressor never licked on so I think those pressures are due to that, no compressor action. But I did empty one 12 oz. can of 134 and about half another can..so I should have enough 134 in the system to let the compressor turn on..

I want to see if when I push the button on the a/c on the dash and turn the fan on if there is current going out to the plug that the compressor's wire plugs into and if I have power there then I want to check the sensor switch that is actually on the orifice tube up near the condenser end of the orifice tube and see if by jumping that to the "everything is OK' state the compressor turns on/clutch engages. But I don't know what I have to jump in that plug to make it think the system is ready to go. There are three points of contact in the plug.

I don't know or can't think anything else that is/could be causing the compressor not to turn on????

 

You mean the 2.5, right?

You NEED the compressor running to charge the system from a can. How are you estimating the weight of the charge?

The system was fully evacuated before you attempted to charge it, right?

Get yourself a manifold gauge set and verify the charge. Really, it's the first step to diagnose the problem.