02 Dakota No Spark
#11
#12
About the oil, i asked the dealership that precise question and the tech said never run even synthetic blended oil in a older engine let alone full synthetic. He explained the synthetic oils will actually wash the "good" build up off important parts like bearings, seals ect and can cause catastrophic failure.
He said at the very minimum it will make the vehicle lose oil pressure start ticking and start smoking as well. If the vehicle has always been run with synthetic oil than that is a whole different situation. With that being said I'm sure there are people out there that have done it and haven't had an ounce of trouble.
As far as testing my coils I literally couldn't get a single reading, the needle on my voltage tester just barely moved. I double checked my settings and still nothing? Batteries were brand new so I know that's not it.
He said at the very minimum it will make the vehicle lose oil pressure start ticking and start smoking as well. If the vehicle has always been run with synthetic oil than that is a whole different situation. With that being said I'm sure there are people out there that have done it and haven't had an ounce of trouble.
As far as testing my coils I literally couldn't get a single reading, the needle on my voltage tester just barely moved. I double checked my settings and still nothing? Batteries were brand new so I know that's not it.
#13
Ok update: Closer observation i do NOT have power to my fuel pump as i originally thought, still NO spark and for whatever reason i just noticed NO gauge cluster activities.
The tach and speedo are both maxed out and "NO BUS" is reading on my odometer now, man what next Lol? I disconnected the battery and cleaned everything up, but that would of been to easy. I checked all fuses again aswel as the relays and not so much as a click when the key is turned on.
I guess im starting with the crankshaft positioning censor then on to the cam censor.
The tach and speedo are both maxed out and "NO BUS" is reading on my odometer now, man what next Lol? I disconnected the battery and cleaned everything up, but that would of been to easy. I checked all fuses again aswel as the relays and not so much as a click when the key is turned on.
I guess im starting with the crankshaft positioning censor then on to the cam censor.
#14
So you have NO BUS now.
Unplug all the sensors - cam, crank, throttle, MAP, and IAC.
Key-on and see if no-buss goes away.
Also, check for 5 volts across any of the sensor pigtails off the PCM. This error is usually most common when the 5 volt regulator in the PCM dies or a sensor shorts out the 5 volt regulator.
Unplug all the sensors - cam, crank, throttle, MAP, and IAC.
Key-on and see if no-buss goes away.
Also, check for 5 volts across any of the sensor pigtails off the PCM. This error is usually most common when the 5 volt regulator in the PCM dies or a sensor shorts out the 5 volt regulator.
#15
#16
Just unplug all the sensors, to isolate that one of them is not shorting out the 5 volt buss. If no-buss goes away, it's a sensor fault. If it's still there, check for the 5 volt supply line. If it's there, it's another issue. If it's not, there'a an electrical gremlin or a bad voltage regulator in the PCM.
#18
About the oil, i asked the dealership that precise question and the tech said never run even synthetic blended oil in a older engine let alone full synthetic. He explained the synthetic oils will actually wash the "good" build up off important parts like bearings, seals ect and can cause catastrophic failure.
It's probably safe to bet that over 75% of the owners here run full syn. There is no such thing as "good" build up in an engine, in fact, buildup is what you want to avoid. Bearings and other moving parts need clean oil flowing through them and if a seal is dependent on buildup to properly seal, it will leak...plain and simple. Your engine needs oil that cleans, does not coagulate, or flow slowly. You can run conventional, blend, or full syn and switch back and forth as you please but full syn is the best you'll get. If you look down in my filler neck, there is no build up and I've tested my pressure with a pressure gauge. It's pretty high. Oh and I'm nearing 300K with no issues.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 08-18-2018 at 06:54 AM.
#19
Ouch! don't shoot me im just the messenger Lol.
The dealership is a large all Dodge truck dealership. When browsing over other site's i have seen alot comments about running 10w30 and 10w40 conventional oil in the 4.7 with great results. I do appreciate your input because this is a big learning curve for me so i take all comments seriously.
Inside the oil filler neck is factory clean and the dipstick is the same so for now im going to stick with the oil the original owner was running, seems to be doing the job.
He was definitely a Bosch nut Lol. Oil filter, air filter, plugs, wipers Ect...all Bosch.
The dealership is a large all Dodge truck dealership. When browsing over other site's i have seen alot comments about running 10w30 and 10w40 conventional oil in the 4.7 with great results. I do appreciate your input because this is a big learning curve for me so i take all comments seriously.
Inside the oil filler neck is factory clean and the dipstick is the same so for now im going to stick with the oil the original owner was running, seems to be doing the job.
He was definitely a Bosch nut Lol. Oil filter, air filter, plugs, wipers Ect...all Bosch.
#20