Engine shuts down no codes. Every electrical component has been replaced.
#1
Engine shuts down no codes. Every electrical component has been replaced.
I have a 97 Dodge Dakota SLT 4x4.automatic transmission. Been having a problem with it shutting down for no apparent reason. It does not code & it takes 10 minutes to start back up. Every sensor & module has been replaced. Have lots of money tied up in this. I cannot recreate the issue. It does it whenever. Idling,driving.
Last edited by Steven Price; 11-19-2018 at 05:53 PM. Reason: Engine size. 3.9
#2
Have you replaced the PCM? Mine was doing the same thing, no rhyme or reason. Turned out to be the internal connections of the PCM, common failure of the JTEC computers. Try starting the truck, then gently move the center connector up and down to see if it stutters or stalls. I chronicled my adventures with the same issue and the final resolution was here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post3416155
The previous post was my temporary and this is more permanent until I get around to actually replacing the PCM (I don't want to until I replace the engine as well. 3.9 to 5.2)
Quick fix, try zip-tying the plugs down tight on the PCM, make sure they can't really move at all, also the two screws on the front, pull them out one at a time and put a nylon washer under it. The left one specifically I've read is right above the crank sensor input on the board, and due to age/temp causes it to warp slightly. The screw is a bit too long and shorts out on the board, causing the truck to die. It can either start right back up, or have to cool slightly to un-short. Putting washers under the screws, and a bracket to hold the connectors was my fix.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post3416155
The previous post was my temporary and this is more permanent until I get around to actually replacing the PCM (I don't want to until I replace the engine as well. 3.9 to 5.2)
Quick fix, try zip-tying the plugs down tight on the PCM, make sure they can't really move at all, also the two screws on the front, pull them out one at a time and put a nylon washer under it. The left one specifically I've read is right above the crank sensor input on the board, and due to age/temp causes it to warp slightly. The screw is a bit too long and shorts out on the board, causing the truck to die. It can either start right back up, or have to cool slightly to un-short. Putting washers under the screws, and a bracket to hold the connectors was my fix.
#7
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#10
You need a tech like the owner of New Level Auto to test for your problem.
Not in your area but this guy is amazing at finding strange problems.
New Level Auto---------- https://www.youtube.com/user/ONBOARDTECH333KMD/videos
Not in your area but this guy is amazing at finding strange problems.
New Level Auto---------- https://www.youtube.com/user/ONBOARDTECH333KMD/videos