heater
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
RE: heater
Check the temp gauge inside the truck, if it is running about half way then it could be the heater core, as the temp sensor on the block will still work properly. In my case my temp gauge inside was only going to just before the 1/4 mark, so i changed themostats to no avail, it still only barely made it to the 1/4 mark. So the only other thing that could be affecting the temp sensor is the clutch fan constantly blowing cold air over the motor and sure enough it was i guess always engaged, put a new clutch fan in, and temp gauge goes to about half now, and i get nice warm air blowing from the heater.
Captain
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
From: Malvern, Pa.
RE: heater
Remove heater hoses from the heater core, Blow compressed air thru core( not to hi of pressure). This will exspell a bunch of crap from the clogged core. Reassemble. You should now have heat.
RE: heater
You can very easily check to see if the heater core is clogged. Find the two heater hoses that come off the engine block and onto the firewall. The 2 heater hoses should be right next to each other at the firewall. Using your hand, just feel both hoses, if one hose is much cooler than the other hose, your heater core is clogged. If both heater hoses feel almost the same, then it may be another problem.
If you confirm the core is clogged, the only way to try to clear the debris is to reverse flush the core. The heater hose that is the colder of the two is the return line and the one that is hot is the supply line. Here are the steps.
1. Make note which one heater hose is the return line (colder one). Disconnect both heater hoses from the engine block side.
2. Using a kit from Prestone's super flush kit, they make an adaptor for you to connect a water hose to the return hose. Once the water hose is connected to the return side of the core, position the supply heater hose to where the water/debris will blow out without making a mess inside your engine compartment.
3. Turn on the water slowly at first, to see how much water comes out the supply hose. If you turn on the water too quickly, the sudden rise in pressure may rupture and burst the core if clogged severely. If you start seeing debris coming out of the supply side, continue to slowly turn up the water pressure until you are nearly at full open. Maintain the full pressure water flow for another few minutes.
4. Disconnect water hose, and reconnect both heater hoses back to engine block. Start and warm engine and check both heater hoses to see if both hoses are hot.
Depending on the severity of the clog, you will eventually need to replace the core. From my first experience on my first core replacement, my mechanic told me to get it thru the dealership for dodge cores. OEM cores from dealer runs around $150 bucks and they have a 3 year warranty on the core. Dealer OEM core are 100 percent copper cores with no plastic anything on them. But when you buy one from dealer, PLEASE make sure you open the box and take the core out and VISUALLY inspect the core. My mechanic recommend me to do that and thank god I did. The first two cores that came off their shelves, the first core looks like it has been used, the second core had alot of rust. The third and last core they had on the shelf was brand spanking new!!!
Labor charge from my mechanic ran around $400 to replace the core. 2nd gen Daks and 1st gen Durangos, you have to tear down and remove steering column and the entire dash assembly to get access to the core. This was an easy 8-12 hour job. I even gave him a case of cold beer on top of the fee!
If you confirm the core is clogged, the only way to try to clear the debris is to reverse flush the core. The heater hose that is the colder of the two is the return line and the one that is hot is the supply line. Here are the steps.
1. Make note which one heater hose is the return line (colder one). Disconnect both heater hoses from the engine block side.
2. Using a kit from Prestone's super flush kit, they make an adaptor for you to connect a water hose to the return hose. Once the water hose is connected to the return side of the core, position the supply heater hose to where the water/debris will blow out without making a mess inside your engine compartment.
3. Turn on the water slowly at first, to see how much water comes out the supply hose. If you turn on the water too quickly, the sudden rise in pressure may rupture and burst the core if clogged severely. If you start seeing debris coming out of the supply side, continue to slowly turn up the water pressure until you are nearly at full open. Maintain the full pressure water flow for another few minutes.
4. Disconnect water hose, and reconnect both heater hoses back to engine block. Start and warm engine and check both heater hoses to see if both hoses are hot.
Depending on the severity of the clog, you will eventually need to replace the core. From my first experience on my first core replacement, my mechanic told me to get it thru the dealership for dodge cores. OEM cores from dealer runs around $150 bucks and they have a 3 year warranty on the core. Dealer OEM core are 100 percent copper cores with no plastic anything on them. But when you buy one from dealer, PLEASE make sure you open the box and take the core out and VISUALLY inspect the core. My mechanic recommend me to do that and thank god I did. The first two cores that came off their shelves, the first core looks like it has been used, the second core had alot of rust. The third and last core they had on the shelf was brand spanking new!!!
Labor charge from my mechanic ran around $400 to replace the core. 2nd gen Daks and 1st gen Durangos, you have to tear down and remove steering column and the entire dash assembly to get access to the core. This was an easy 8-12 hour job. I even gave him a case of cold beer on top of the fee!
Replaced my last one in 5 hrs total.