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A/C clutch cycling

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Old Aug 17, 2019 | 07:00 PM
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Default A/C clutch cycling

I just replaced the compressor because the clutch was bad on the old one and now I have intermittent clutch engagement.

It engages randomly for 3 -8 seconds and then nothing for about 30 seconds. I believe the charge is sufficient at this point but am not sure.

Any help would be appreciated.

Steve
 
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Old Aug 17, 2019 | 07:32 PM
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Did you test for leaks? If there were no leaks did you pull a vacuum before filling?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 01:18 AM
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You don't seem too confident in that charge 🤔
Why do you believe it's sufficient?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 06:40 AM
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You could have just replaced the clutch alone without pulling the lines.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Zingo
You don't seem too confident in that charge 🤔
Why do you believe it's sufficient?
I put the Tag oil in and enough R-134 to get the pressure up to 60psi on the fill gauge. I didn't pull a vacuum, but never had to with the other vehicles I have refilled.

I know that the clutch can be replaced without removing the compressor, but removing the fan, shroud and other components seemed like more trouble than replacing the whole compressor.

Steve
 
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by pampas56
I put the Tag oil in and enough R-134 to get the pressure up to 60psi on the fill gauge. I didn't pull a vacuum, but never had to with the other vehicles I have refilled.

I know that the clutch can be replaced without removing the compressor, but removing the fan, shroud and other components seemed like more trouble than replacing the whole compressor.

Steve
Everybody is going to tell you that you should have pulled a vacuum and changed the drier, seals, weighed in the charge with a scale and had a full manifold set etc; and all that. That would be the best most proper way to do the job.
Buttttttt to each their own, sometimes people cut corners for various reasons, I would have taken more precautions but t's your truck.

When you charged it to 60psi was the truck running the clutch engaged and it still held 60psi with the compressor spinning? That's how you need to reach your desired pressure. And also, 60 is too high. If you didn't do it this way, you're undercharged still, and the compressor is cutting out on low pressure control.
If you DID do it this way, you may be overcharged. 60psi is a steep pressure for the suction side. Too much refrigerant can not only make the discharge air from your vents WARMER but also raise the high side pressure high enough to trip the high pressure cutout. Especially with air and other impurities in the system.

How exactly did you charge it?

Either way, even if you don't want to go the whole nine yards and do everything the "proper" way you really really really should at least pull a vacuum before charging this again if it needs to be adjusted. You can borrow a vacuum pump from oriellys for free.
They might even have a full manifold set which would be good too.

When you say you never pulled a vacuum on other vehicles you've "refilled" does that mean you just top them off? If that's the case you're right, no vacuum needed.
But when you open a system, or it 100% leaked out. You really should use a vacuum pump.
 

Last edited by Zingo; Aug 18, 2019 at 10:50 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 10:59 PM
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Wow. Yea, if you didn't pull a vacuum, you'll have nothing but problems on a oriface-controlled system.
 
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