Finally: an LED compatible Combination Flasher
#11
Yeah, it was the #1 under-hood fuse. I had only checked the cabin fuse panel last night. I actually forgot there was another fuse till I checked it early this morning. It didn't even look blown, as in no separation of metal. It was only when I swapped it with another nearby 20 Amp, that it began working. Was afraid I might have toasted something in the CTM last night. LOL
Anyway, I had to put back in the old relay as it seems the resistance of the modified relay is too high for the circuit. I have LEDs all around and while the fronts flash with the indicator, only one bank of the rear LEDs light up.... while the rest flash ever so dimly. The rears LED tails came with flasher modules which are supposed to have the right resistance, but they began hyper-flashing only weeks after I got them. Still, I believe the resistance of the modules added to the resistor that I put on the relay is too much. Even the directional arrows in the cluster are much dimmer when using the indicator, vs the hazards. The hazards has em lighting up normally.
Anyway, I had to put back in the old relay as it seems the resistance of the modified relay is too high for the circuit. I have LEDs all around and while the fronts flash with the indicator, only one bank of the rear LEDs light up.... while the rest flash ever so dimly. The rears LED tails came with flasher modules which are supposed to have the right resistance, but they began hyper-flashing only weeks after I got them. Still, I believe the resistance of the modules added to the resistor that I put on the relay is too much. Even the directional arrows in the cluster are much dimmer when using the indicator, vs the hazards. The hazards has em lighting up normally.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 10-05-2019 at 12:28 PM.
#13
This is the resistor I used. Sorry for the big *** pic.
#15
Thanks for the sharp eye...guess I'll be doing this again.
#18
Well, I finally got this done. Ain't pretty but it works great. Flashing at normal speed again. Just ordered some LED headlight bulbs and got my LED fogs put back in. I had removed them cause water leaked into one. They're all sealed up now. Pretty much everything on the truck is LED now, except for dash display, glove box and bed lights.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 10-17-2019 at 01:04 PM.
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magnethead (10-17-2019)
#20
So, for the sake of testing without umpteen trips to the truck, I'm trying to make a test circuit in my office. I have load resistors on each corner that makes the total current draw 1 amp per side, plus 3 LED's drawing 20mA each. I'm toggling ground for left/right/haz and supplying power for brake.
Since the load on my truck comes out to about 1.1 amps per side, I figured 1 amp here would be plenty (Technically, the 1.06 amps is identical to on the truck). 800mA and less is the threshold for hyperflash after the modification.
The stock shunt is 30 mOhms with a 87mV threshold - 2.9 amps threshold per side.
This go-round I'm using much smaller 10-watt 0.1 ohm resistors. Without a formal heatsink, they are good to about 5 watts. 1.1 amps flowing @ 0.11 volts shunted is about 0.2 watts if you want to round it off.
Since the load on my truck comes out to about 1.1 amps per side, I figured 1 amp here would be plenty (Technically, the 1.06 amps is identical to on the truck). 800mA and less is the threshold for hyperflash after the modification.
The stock shunt is 30 mOhms with a 87mV threshold - 2.9 amps threshold per side.
This go-round I'm using much smaller 10-watt 0.1 ohm resistors. Without a formal heatsink, they are good to about 5 watts. 1.1 amps flowing @ 0.11 volts shunted is about 0.2 watts if you want to round it off.
Last edited by magnethead; 05-20-2020 at 12:33 AM.