So my 2001 FSM doesn't list any of those....

You've got a weird situation there.....

 

I agree w Hey you..
Sounds like cruise control errors are halting gear signal needed for start up.
Fix it an clear codes .
Look at emissions code too.

 

Cruise shouldn't affect start up. My cruise buttons are unhooked since I set them up as paddle shifters. It sets several codes in the PCM.

 

If the electronics don't think the trans is in Park/Neutral, the starter relay will not click.
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That may factor why it's not turning over .
All pcm led..

 

The saga continues. When initially rebuilding the truck with body parts I purchased a 2004 model parts truck, of course mine is a 2003.

Went out this morning and the truck fired right off, I took the cruise module off the 04 and installed on my 03...reset the PCM with battery disconnect, this cleared all the cruise P-Code errors. Drove it at 55 and tried the cruise, no go, cruise light on dash wouldn’t even turn on. Got it back home and rechecked codes again, had the 499 evap code and a 581 cruise along with it not turning over again...let sit for about 1 hour and it fired off. Tried shutting it off and restarting several times with no issues.

Still don’t know if the cruise is related to the “no start” issue that popped up when the cruise quit working. I can live without the cruise but definitely need to get the starting up issue resolved.

Still working on it...wonder if there is anything wrong with the 04 cruise module that I installed or if it goes deeper like maybe the PCM?? I’ve got s PCM in the 04 parts truck, does anyone know if they are compatible?

Advise appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Make sure the ignition control module is receiving an sending the power to relay/starter .
Mine had a burnt contact in it.

 

Found this ..maybe different on terminal #s but same set up -dakota/durango -no start /ground /ignition
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The system uses an engine starter motor relay located in the power distribution center (PDC). Power flows to the relay contacts from fuse 16. Power flows to the relay control coil from fuse “E” to the ignition switch and then to the control coil on the starter relay. The control side of the coil gets its ground from the neutral switch (manual transmission) or the transmission range selector (automatic transmission).

To diagnose the system, remove the relay and jumper across terminals 30 and 87 in the relay socket. If the starter cranks, you know the starter is good. Next, check for power on terminal 86 in the socket while turning the key to START. That confirms you’ve got good power flowing from the fuse and through the ignition switch. Finally, check for good ground on terminal 85 in the relay socket. If you don’t have good ground, check the neutral switch or transmission range selector. You’re not going anywhere if you don’t have good ground on those switches.
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Good luck!

 

I’ve already ohmed/checked the relay, I ran across the same procedure while googling and actually swapped it with the power window relay which is the same type.

I’ll put the jumper on and try that along with checking the ground and the voltage on 86.

At at this point I’m willing to try anything.

Thanks for the help.

 

Jumped across terminals, starter turned over. Checked voltage on terminal with key in start position, voltage was good.

What is the proper procedure for checking the ground on the terminal?

thanks

 

Took a jumper wire from the relay leg #85 and ran it over to the ground on the battery.

Fires up every time. It may not be the right thing to do but it got it going and hopefully it won’t blow anything up. If anyone sees a SAFETY issue with this please reply back.

If it is the transmission switch that completes the ground circuit which is located internally on the tranny it will have to wait for a tranny fluid change.

I’ve got hunting to do at the present moment.

Will reply once I figure it out.

Appreciate all all the input.